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 ADVANCED
Third Pinnacle
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Halls of Ivy T 
Red Tide T,TR 
South Ridge T 
Thin Crack T,TR 
Trident T,TR 
West Crack T 
West Flakes T 
Wide Crack T,TR 

West Flakes 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown: FKA T.Bubb, P. Johnson 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 162
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 19, 2006

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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is more of a boulder problem than a climb for most folks, I suspect, but we did the line with a rope for lack of knowledge of it.

    Find this climb by first finding a chockstone gully about 1/2 way up the West side of the formation. This climb is just downhill from that and has a short but obvious handcrack section in the last 3' of climbing.

    The climb starts in a series of flakes in a left-facing flake and corner system (unprotected 5.5) and then climbs up to mantle onto the top flake. A few hand-sized pieces here protect a balancy move to the top.

    Top out, place a 2" cam directional in the crack, then scramble North (left) for 20' to a good tree to belay.

    To exit, scramble easy 3rd class to the North for 50' and back to the trail.

    Location 

    Start up the trail, walking northward up the West side of the 3rd Pinnacle. Perhaps 1/2 way up this ridge, 50 meters, a route by the above description will be seen. Climb it to the top of the ridge.

    Protection 

    A few hand sized cams. a 2" cam protects the top as a directional before the traverse to the belay.


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