|Type:||Trad, 7 pitches, 700', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Fred Beckey and Hooman Aprin, 1971|
|Season:||Year-round if you like to snowshoe/ski|
|Submitted By:||limpingcrab on Nov 28, 2012|
|Comments on West Face||Add Comment|
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Jul 8, 2013
Completed the West Face over 4th of July weekend. Hiked in one day to lower Geraldine lake, completed climb on the second day, and hiked out third day.
The hike in is the hardest part due to difficult route finding. I have an iPhone app that overlaid our position on USGS topo maps and it was extremely helpful.
The route itself is straight forward. The chimney start is obvious. The pitches get easier as you go up. The first two pitches are the hardest. We did it in 6 long pitches on a 60m rope.
Pitch 1: Chimney, then exit out left onto face.
Pitch 2: Follow obvious face / right facing dihedral up.
Pitch 3: Face straight up to obvious belay ledge.
Pitch 4: Face climbing over right roof onto easy knobs. 5.5 easy.
Pitch 5: More face and knobs straight up.
Pitch 6: Class IV rope optional.
Descent is obvious on back side with two raps. 1st is short at around 50 feet. Second rap is longer at around 150 feet with the majority of it free hanging. We rapped with two 60m ropes and had 40 feet of slack on ground. If you had two 50m ropes you could make it down. I do not believe that 60m ropes are mandatory.
On the second rappel about 1/3 of the way down I spotted a two bolt rap anchor with rings. This was not posted on mp and may be helpful in a pinch. My thoughts are that someone must have extended out the first rappel and then bolted a rappel anchor while hanging off their rope. You could speculate that this two bolted anchor was made to accommodate 50m ropes back before 60m length ropes were the standard. The bolts are in good shape.
Be careful with rope pulls. We used an EDK knot backed up (i.e. two overhands) as it pulls better than a standard triple fishermans knot which could snag easier.
We took four metolius mastercams (0, 1, 2, and 3), 1 set of nuts, the two largest wc hexcentric hexes, and four large wc alpine nuts. This was more than enough for placements. You could easily take half a set of nuts, 4 cams, and 2 hexes. The important thing to bring is lots of double length slings. We used 4 for slinging knobs and it made leading quick and easy. We also had 10 standard length slings.
If you don't own large hexes or large alpine nuts then BD .75 through 3 would work. A BD 4 is overkill and not needed.