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Shark's Nose
Routes Sorted
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Direct Northwest buttress T 
Direct Southwest Face T 
NW Buttress T 
West Face T 

West Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 568
Submitted By: ChadOfUtah on Aug 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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This was taken from the top of the 5.9 crack secti...

Description 

P1-2 (5.5): Follow Thoroughfare route past the steep crack up to the end of the ramp. See book for thoroughfare description.

P3 (5.6): Climb steep corner and move right (5.6) around large rounded block onto NW deck/slab (airy after the block). Traverse horizontal cracks past a very large sloping deck (below and past rap anchor) onto small ledges and into a corner. Belay here. Note: after the large rounded block the climbing is easier but the traverse is difficult to protect for the second.

P4 (5.9): Start left in the corner up a finger crack in the dihedral then follow 5.8 hand cracks on the face, past an old pin and a small roof. Pull roof (5.7) and follow wandering 5.9 finger cracks to a nice ledge. Extra TCU's are nice here but the crack also accepts nuts well. Belay here or continue the route (5.4) to the summit. This pitch can be broken into two pitches if you belay in the small roof after ye ol' pin.

This was a thrilling climb. The 3rd and 4th pitches are on the W/NW faces which are sheer walls with a thousand feet of air below! Spectacular finger cracks with a great view.


Location 

Descent: rap Thoroughfare. The rap is awkward, we started with two ropes but a single 60 was more manageable.

Protection 

rack up to a #3 camalot, extra TCU’s for the 4th pitch.


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