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First Ascent by Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich in 1986 at 5.10 A2, The route went 20 years before a repeat, and 21 years later (2007) saw it's FFA by Max Hasson and Jens Holsten, 5.11+
Pitch 1 - Rated 5.7 by the first ascentonists, this pitch is more like 5.9 or 5.10a, with less than obvious gear. Climb up a pillar, cracks, flakes, and occasional knobs, generally straight up. A belay can be made at ~40m on a small (think one foot) stance.
Pitch 2 - The crux pitch. Follow thin cracks and knobs to the left of the large corner, overcome a small roof (5.11+) and belay in cracks above, at the base of an orange flake.
Pitch 3 - Up cracks on the right side of the flake, that gradually widen from 1/2" to 3" - 5.10
Pitch 4 - Up the obvious widening crack above, occasional face holds help when most needed. 5.10++. Belay will be at a small ledge, the first real stance encountered on the route.
Pitch 5 - Straight up the dark corner above, fun stemming and face holds lead to a mantle onto the summit terrace. 5.8
This is one of the best routes in the Cascades.
From the left (north) edge of the face, traverse right on a narrow ledge to a small cairn near where the ledge divides. Begin beneath a long, thin, left-facing corner which is roughly 200' up.
A full rack, including doubles of mid-sized cams and a 4-5" Cam. Offset nuts and small cams are helpful, especially if aiding the crux roof.
P2 - Below the crux roof
BETA PHOTO: The West Face
|By Darin Berdinka|
May 1, 2009
This is the biggest 500' wall I've ever climbed. With a fair bit of dangling this route can be climbed at mid-5.10 C2ish. The start is not obvious, look for the V-shaped roof as show in the photo titled P1 above.
You can leave all your crap at the base of the climb. Then to descend, from below the summit blocks do two double rope rappels down the north ridge, then two more double rope rappels down the west face to reach the big ledge at the base of the route. Great anchors, clean rock, easy pulls. Just what you want after a long taxing day.