Type: Trad, 1800 ft (545 m), 20 pitches, Grade IV
FA: FA 1967 TM Herbert & Royal Robbins FFA 1979 Ray Jardine and Bill Price
Page Views: 33,180 total · 167/month
Shared By: David Trippett on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change


My Memory is a bit sketchy on some of the pitches....feel free to offer corrections....

P1 11b slabby, bolt protected face crux starting off of a platform.

P2 11b Thin, left arching crack undercling/layback. Lots of fixed gear

P3 10a Slightly flaring thin corner,

P4 Big Traverse.

P5 10a Cool 10a arete/bulge move following by incredible 5.8 climbing, on atypically Yosemite sculpted jugs which turn out to be the trademark of the climb. Pay attention here, easy to get on the wrong crack.

Link Pitches 6&7 with a 70m rope(68m)....but save some gear for the anchor!

P6+P7 11c Long thin stemming corner with a oddly placed anchor at the crux. This will be the route crux for most. This anchor is not the end, keep going past the crux to the belay ledge above. With a 70m, you will have little rope to spare.

P8 11c A fantastic short but strenous 30' (?) overhanging hand and finger crack;

P9 7 Traverse to move belay.

P10 10b Delicate 10 face moves to a nice 5.8 crack.

P11 10b Incredibly beautiful pitch -- a lot of it steep. uncharacteristic well placed gigantic jugs and gorgeous rock..

P12 5.8 Easy climbing on face and cracks

P13 9 Another fun jug-ridden pitch.

-Link pitches 14 & 15 w 70m rope-

P14 10d Great steep thin crack then delicate face.

P15 7 classic long 5.7 corner pitch

P16 2nd class move to the other end of the Thanksgiving ledge.

P17 - 20 forgettable and rambling mid 5th....pick your poison The "route" effectively is over after Thanksgiving Ledge....we soloed out.

Location Suggest change

Walk up to Lurking Fear and keep going. The route starts off a big pedestal below a large arching roof.

Protection Suggest change

A 70m rope is best for linking pitches. Heavy on thin gear, doubles of everything from green alien to #2 Camalot and 1 #3 Camalot. Nuts.

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