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West Face 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 20 pitches, 1800', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA 1967 TM Herbert & Royal Robbins FFA 1979 Ray Jardine and Bill Price
Season: Spring, Autumn
Page Views: 10,262
Submitted By: David Trippett on Nov 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


My Memory is a bit sketchy on some of the pitches....feel free to offer corrections....

P1 11b slabby, bolt protected face crux starting off of a platform.

P2 11b Thin, left arching crack undercling/layback. Lots of fixed gear

P3 10a Slightly flaring thin corner,

P4 Big Traverse.

P5 10a Cool 10a arete/bulge move following by incredible 5.8 climbing, on atypically Yosemite sculpted jugs which turn out to be the trademark of the climb. Pay attention here, easy to get on the wrong crack.

Link Pitches 6&7 with a 70m rope(68m)....but save some gear for the anchor!

P6+P7 11c Long thin stemming corner with a oddly placed anchor at the crux. This will be the route crux for most. This anchor is not the end, keep going past the crux to the belay ledge above. With a 70m, you will have little rope to spare.

P8 11c A fantastic short but strenous 30' (?) overhanging hand and finger crack;

P9 7 Traverse to move belay.

P10 10b Delicate 10 face moves to a nice 5.8 crack.

P11 10b Incredibly beautiful pitch -- a lot of it steep. uncharacteristic well placed gigantic jugs and gorgeous rock..

P12 5.8 Easy climbing on face and cracks

P13 9 Another fun jug-ridden pitch.

-Link pitches 14 & 15 w 70m rope-

P14 10d Great steep thin crack then delicate face.

P15 7 classic long 5.7 corner pitch

P16 2nd class move to the other end of the Thanksgiving ledge.

P17 - 20 forgettable and rambling mid 5th....pick your poison The "route" effectively is over after Thanksgiving Ledge....we soloed out.


Walk up to Lurking Fear and keep going. The route starts off a big pedestal below a large arching roof.


A 70m rope is best for linking pitches. Heavy on thin gear, doubles of everything from green alien to #2 Camalot and 1 #3 Camalot. Nuts.

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By 426
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

P3 is extremely slippery, watch yerself!

I still have to free this bad boy, climbed like a demon on the lower part, but the funky "J-Tree" pod pitch (P8) spit me off. I also seem to recall using /discrete/ rope tension on the 10d "near the top" pitch.
By Ryan Curry
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

Climbed this route yesterday so I thought I'd add my 2 cents.
p1: 1st bolt is old Leeper (yellow alien just below it), second looks newer. Crux is thin face climbing to the right of bolts. Second half of pitch is protected primarily by fixed pins and a very old bolt.
P2: a good bolt protects the initial moves into a thin arching crack with some fixed gear. The crack ends as you move on to tricky face moves that felt like solid 5.10. A bit runout here.
P3: Fun 5.10a corner to cruiser 5.8 corner.
P4: This pitch is short and basically moves the belay up and left to facilitate access to the next pitch. Look for old slings to mark the belay.
P5: Great exposed 5.10a move to juggy 5.8 crack. Ends at a comfy ledge.
Crack selection is not an issue here; that is more of an issue higher up.
P6: The crux. Slippery, steep and exposed. With a few fixed pieces and a bunch of small cams and wires this protects well. Link this pitch with the next pitch in the Reid guide. 70 meter rope mandatory.
P7: This pitch, at 5.11c, is rated the same as the previous pitch but felt much easier. Short and powerful, punch through to good jams on overhanging rock. Mantle on to a ledge with five old bolts as an anchor.
P8: Wild traverse right on good holds with somewhat sporadic pro. Be sure to protect your follower on the downclimbing section. Bring the bigger cams on this pitch. We used both a #4 friend as well as a #4 camalot.
P9: The routefinding crux for us. Traverse on thin 5.10 face right. Pass an off-route crack, go further right to a 5.8 crack that passes through a 5.10a roof. When in doubt on the traverse go further right than you would think.
P10: 5.10b moves to start lead to a super fun crack/face jug haul.
P11: Hyper-exposed 5.7 angling traverse on a huge block leads to an inobvious 5.8 crux. Fairly short pitch. Belay low enough to start the next pitch on a featured face traverse.
P12: Traverse easily (5.6) to a fist crack. Up this thuggishly utilizing face holds to a very large ledge.
P13: Clean hand to finger crack (5.10d) leads to a thin (5.10c) face traverse protected by a funky, but seemingly solid, pin. Continue up the corner all the way to Thanksgiving ledge. This is a linked pitch. Be sure to use long slings down low or ropedrag can be a real problem. 70 meter rope is mandatory to link.
P14 and beyond: Move belay to the far left end of the ledge. Climb up a 5.6 corner. The pitches above get progressively easier until you are fourth classing it to the top.
We fixed pitches 1 and 2 and found that a 70m rope reaches the deck from the second belay. Also, be sure to bring a lot of thin gear (black aliens, 00 tcu). They won't go unused.
By walker emerson
May 14, 2012

Just wanted to add some info for anyone looking to do the west face.
On pitch one a new bolt has been added to protect the crux as well as on pitch two at the beginning of the crux. New bolts have been added at the belays up to pitch 5 I think. above that are the same old relics.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

All anchors up to P7 (before the long traverse right) are two 3/8" bolts and setup for rappel. The P3 anchor is the only exception which is a slung block attached to a single new bolt.

The midway "anchor" on P6 has been reduced to one bolt with a long sling on it. Please don't remove the sling/cord so you can clip early, or pull past if aiding.

The jumble of 1/4" bolts on the P7 ledge have been removed.

As Walker noted there is a new bolt protecting the crux on P1. There is a 1/4" bolt right below.

The 3rd bolt on P1, that Ryan mentions, has been upgraded to a 3/8" bolt.

This route has great anchors, good ledges and challenging climbing. Go for it!!

We brought 1x green C3 3x Red C3 and then doubles to #2 Camalot, a single #3 Camalot plus nuts. Good to have lots of alpine draws for all the pitons. This rack is overkill for a lot of pitches but I placed everything on the 70m pitch 6.
By jacobson
Sep 29, 2013

On the second pitch: There were two nice-looking pitons (I'm not sure if these were retrofitted) protecting the funky face/dihedral section after the initial section off the anchor. Does anybody have information on those pitons? Or are those original?
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