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West Face 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 420'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 379
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Mar 22, 2007

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Victor leading the first pitch

Description 

Easy route-finding make this route an obvious choice for a first trip to ORP. The route is easily identified as the major corner system that rises for about 2 pitches up the North West side of ORP.

Start: from the Canyon between ORP and Lesser Spire, scramble up an short slab directly beneath the corner system to reach a large bushy ledge.

Pitch 1: Starts with some moderate climbing in the steep vegetated corner up to a crux in an off-width, flaring chimney corner. This crux may feel hard for the grade, but good body scumming technique and a large cam will see you through it. After this crux, continue up the vegetated corner system to a nice belay stance.

Pitch 2: The vegetation finally gives way to cleaner rock. A second crux is pulling around a steep headwall. There are two options for this, a steep fist-OW crack on the left or making a delicate face move to the right to gain big holds through the headwall. Both ways protect well, with medium-large cams. A short ways further is a third crux, a perfect 20 ft finger crack that eats up wired stoppers and tops out at a two-bolt anchor. Two more pitches of moderate climbing/route-finding meander through blocky terrain to the top.


Location 

The start is roughly across from Cacahuate in the canyon between ORP and Lesser Spire. The entire route can be rappelled in 4 two-rope rappels and there are a few old-sling rappel stations that are found while climbing the route. The bolted anchors are roughly 70m off the deck, so if you have two 70's you could potentially get down from there in a single rappel.

Protection 

A few big pieces are good to have for this route. Otherwise, a standard rack does the trick. By no means do you need a lot of big pro, we only had one #3 and 2 #2 Camelots and the route felt only a little edgy. One more bigger piece would give added security.

The bolts at the top of P2 are both 3/8" and although one is fairly rusty, the other looks newer and solid. There is also an old home-made aluminum hanger and button head 6 ft to the left of these which I mention out of interest because it isn't going to hold a much. Gear anchors for all other belays.


Photos of West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Gazing up the first two pitches
BETA PHOTO: Gazing up the first two pitches
Looking up at the third, blocky pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the third, blocky pitch
Victor approaching the top of the second pitch and...
Victor approaching the top of the second pitch and...

Comments on West Face Add Comment
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By Reed Cundiff
Sep 25, 2009

I think Mark Losleben and Cliff Naveaux did the first ascent of this route. There is (or was) a Golden Eagle nest directly on the route. Mark led onto this and had comments about the bones left by the Eagle. He commented to Cliff that maybe there were some lost climbers' remains laid about.
By Victor A
Mar 13, 2015

Beta for getting off with a 70m rope.
We did this with 1 70m rope. The first rap gets you to a ledge where you can set an anchor. Then you have to downclimb, traversing to climbers right, to the next anchor. The next rap gets you to the bolted anchor. The next rap will be short about 10 feet from next anchor and will require unroped downclimbing. From here one rap to the ground.
By Dan Carter
From: Las Cruces, NM
Mar 13, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a pretty classic Organeering route. Adventurey dirty, climbing with short sections of more technical climbing. One might could do this in fewer pitches with two ropes and good rope management. However, with one rope, rope drag forced us to break it up into 4 pitches.

After the first two pitches of more technical climbing (per the route description) there is two more pitches of wandering, blocky climbing. Above the second pitch, scramble up a ways to a roof. One traverses to the left here. One traverse the lower roof, past the "sketchy" rappel station or climb up to the right and traverse a higher roof. They both have good protection and end up in the same place. It's a pretty fun traverse. From here keep heading up some more wandering, blocky terrain to the summit. I still felt sections needed to be roped up, especially the traverse.

Victor's rappel description is good. All of the stations can be spotted while climbing if one is looking for them. I replace webbing on all of the stations on March 9, 2015. The second rappel is slightly sketchy with two small nuts and a slung horn, but still solid.

Ingrahm's description, in the summit register, of climbing ORP is hilarious: "moderate climbing followed by unmoderate climbing." The summit jar needs a pen or pencil.

There were no signs of eagles!

Be careful of loose rocks throughout this route! Rope drag dislodged some large ones near the top.
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