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West Face 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 420'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 355
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Mar 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Gazing up the first two pitches


Easy route-finding make this route an obvious choice for a first trip to ORP. The route is easily identified as the major corner system that rises for about 2 pitches up the North West side of ORP.

Start: from the Canyon between ORP and Lesser Spire, scramble up an short slab directly beneath the corner system to reach a large bushy ledge.

Pitch 1: Starts with some moderate climbing in the steep vegetated corner up to a crux in an off-width, flaring chimney corner. This crux may feel hard for the grade, but good body scumming technique and a large cam will see you through it. After this crux, continue up the vegetated corner system to a nice belay stance.

Pitch 2: The vegetation finally gives way to cleaner rock. A second crux is pulling around a steep headwall. There are two options for this, a steep fist-OW crack on the left or making a delicate face move to the right to gain big holds through the headwall. Both ways protect well, with medium-large cams. A short ways further is a third crux, a perfect 20 ft finger crack that eats up wired stoppers and tops out at a two-bolt anchor. Two more pitches of moderate climbing/route-finding meander through blocky terrain to the top.


The start is roughly across from Cacahuate in the canyon between ORP and Lesser Spire. The entire route can be rappelled in 4 two-rope rappels and there are a few old-sling rappel stations that are found while climbing the route. The bolted anchors are roughly 70m off the deck, so if you have two 70's you could potentially get down from there in a single rappel.


A few big pieces are good to have for this route. Otherwise, a standard rack does the trick. By no means do you need a lot of big pro, we only had one #3 and 2 #2 Camelots and the route felt only a little edgy. One more bigger piece would give added security.

The bolts at the top of P2 are both 3/8" and although one is fairly rusty, the other looks newer and solid. There is also an old home-made aluminum hanger and button head 6 ft to the left of these which I mention out of interest because it isn't going to hold a much. Gear anchors for all other belays.

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By Reed Cundiff
Sep 25, 2009

I think Mark Losleben and Cliff Naveaux did the first ascent of this route. There is (or was) a Golden Eagle nest directly on the route. Mark led onto this and had comments about the bones left by the Eagle. He commented to Cliff that maybe there were some lost climbers' remains laid about.