West Face 5.8+
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Salamanizer on Oct 11, 2006 |
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All the way to the top.... view up the route
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Description Starts 40 ft to the right of the Cave Route and climbs up past five bolts into a cave, belay here on three bolts. Exit the cave to the right and continue up and slightly to the left past another cave and bolt. Now move out right and follow the natural line. Don't worry if you don't see the bolts. You're probably still on route, they'll show up eventually. There's a large loose block about half way up you have to crawl over to avoid harder moves. It would take some prying to pull it off, but careful anyway. Follow the shallow scoop strait up past a few more bolts into a large cave near the top. Exit the cave to the left past two more bolts to the top. This route has some decent runnouts (30+ft) with most bolts being 15 ft to 20 ft apart. Though the cruxy moves have bolts near by under them, this route can still be a bit heads up. Makes for some classic heady oldschool Pine Canyon climbing.
Location Walk off the back to descend.
Protection 12 Quickdraws, Runners useful.
By bergbryce
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 20, 2010
| These route descriptions are really great, but several of them do not mention what feature they are on. Based upon the overview photo, what piece of rock is this route on?? thx |
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Oct 29, 2010
| You're right, the way the routes are organized in this database is sometimes hard to follow. They should be segregated into groups based on which feature they can be found.
Anyway, West Face is on The Rock of Ages (aka. Acid Rock). The base of the route can be found on the right side of the formation before you start to head around the corner and up hill. Just to the right of a tree with three or four trunks growing in a group at the base of the wall. Head right at the first cave. All bolts were replaced or seemed bomber as of 2009. |
By IAmNotLegend
Dec 20, 2011
| The route description is spot on, but may exaggerate the runouts somewhat. 20 ft is probably the average for the second pitch, but I doubt there was anything 30 ft or more. Somewhat brittle rock that only seemed to cause problems for our followers, although I did take a hand full out of a great-seeming undercling near a dried-up beehive.
Can walk off but probably worthwhile to trail up a second rope as we did and rap from top to bottom with two 60m ropes. |
By Phil McAllister
Mar 10, 2012
rating: 5.8+ PG13
| Agreed - there are probably three bolts with 20ft run out as estimated by 3x my body length. Still keeps you on your toes. Bolts on the 2nd pitch are better (but further apart and sometimes out of sight until you climb upwards) than those on the 1st pitch. 2nd pitch is definitely more 5.8 than the 1st pitch.
The beta refers to a large loose block on the second pitch and climbing on the left side - i think that it means climb UP THE LEFT SIDE of the block - there's few holds on the face on the left. |
By clustiere
Aug 23, 2012
| A very fun route and well protected. One 60m pitch from the base to the top. |
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Aug 28, 2012
| Well protected? That route is runnout by almost anyones definition. 7 bolts in about 120ft (two of them close together near the top) on the second pitch isn't runnout to you? |
By Riley McDonald
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| Can be done in one pitch with a 60m rope. |
By old5ten
From: Berkeley, CA
Mar 18, 2013
rating: 5.8
| Fun route with aesthetic moves, nice position, and WAY better than the Cave route. 2nd pitch is not as tightly bolted as the first in general and it's a little ways from the 2nd to 3rd bolt (up from the cave) in particular, but it wouldn't be R by Tuolumne standards. There is however the friable nature of the rock to consider. |
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