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 ADVANCED
West Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amber T 
American Beauty S 
Curve of Binding Energy S 
Furious Howard Brown S 
Mercy Drilling T,S 
North Crack T 
Other One, The S 
Pocket Fisherman S 
Shakedown Street S 
Space Goats S 
Wise Crack S 

West Face  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Wise Crack; the left-most route on the w...

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Description 

The West Face of Surprising Crag has some of the earliest routes on the rock. Many of these older routes are hard, scary, and infrequently climbed. There are a few modern sport routes here, too, but most of them are quite difficult. Other than the route "The Other One", a fun route up the prow at the right end of the West Face, this area sees little traffic.

A number of the scary trad routes have not yet been added to the mountainproject.com database, but will be included in the list below.

Routes from left to right:

A. Wise Crack, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Pocket Fisherman, 11, 1p, 65', bolts.
C. Curve of Binding Energy, 12, 1p, bolts.
D. Entrapment, 10+ X, 1p, gear.
E. Heart Like a Wheel 10- X, 1p, gear.
F. Space Goats, 11+, 1p, 70', bolts.
G. Furious Howard Brown, 12-, 1p, bolts.
H. Buried Alive 10+ R/X, 1p, gear.
I. Power Line 11+ R-, 1p, gear.
J. Power Line Pup 11 R-, 1p, gear.
K. American Beauty, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
L. Amber, 11+ PG-13, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
M. Mercy Drilling, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
N. North Crack, 8+, 1p, 60', gear. LFD.
O. Shakedown Street, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
P. The Other One, 11-, 1p, bolts. Right-hand prow.

Getting There 

Follow the trail to Surprising Crag, then walk left and around the corner. The first route you get to is The Other One.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.1 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',4],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Face:
The Other One   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Space Goats   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Furious Howard Brown   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Mercy Drilling   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Curve of Binding Energy   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
American Beauty   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in West Face

Featured Route For West Face
Phone-camera pic of the route. Sorry for the quality.

North Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : West Face
Per D'Antonio's Boulder Canyon guidebook, this is the deep crack in the dihedral, just right of Mercy Drilling.Either smush into the crack or do dihedral moves.The crux was edging left onto the face at the end to reach the anchors for Mercy Drilling. Moving out is committing. Overall, there are good rests & several "what next?" spots for a 5.8 leader....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of West Face Slideshow Add Photo
The Other One.  The bottom part of the route and the first bolt are not visible in the photo. <br /> <br />Sustained, pumpy 5.10 climbing leads to a good rest below the crux overhang.  Pull over on crimpers and cruise to the top.
BETA PHOTO: The Other One. The bottom part of the route and t...

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