|Colchuck Balanced Rock
This is possibly one of the best free routes around in a spectactular setting staring straight at Mt. Stuart.
I would recommend roping up for the initial scramble to reach the base of the climb. It is easy, but very loose.
P1 Fun but short finger crack(10+). P2 Easy chimney (5.7). P3 Long corner to a nice belay (5.9). P4 Easy pitch up to the base of a clean dihedral. P5 This pitch is a great long hand crack that is often wet, but it is still not that bad when wet (11a). P6 Start out with some liebacking to reach the roof, then traverse straight left out this monster roof to a nice belay ledge, short pitch, (11a). P7 This crux pitch takles the elegant 5.9 corner to a much smaller roof than the previous one. Climb out the left side of this roof (usually a fixed nut)to a stance (12-). P8 Battle up past two consecutive bulges using wide crack technique (5.9). P9 Easy ground gets you to the walk off around the right side of the summit(balanced) block.
Descent: Go down sandy scree to a point where you can easily go back to the base of the climb.
Gear to 3.5 inches
Top of P1 (or P3 in Select Guide)
Following the 5.9 corner, which was the top of P1 ...
5.9 crack and crux roof above.
|By Sol Wertkin|
Aug 28, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
The fixed nut on the crux pitch is gone. Consensus seems to be about 11c for the crux.
|By Isaac T.|
From: Rockville, MD
Jan 13, 2012
Account of the 1st Winter Ascent here
|By Mike dandy Patz|
Jul 1, 2013
What is the season for this? Temps too hot in mid summer?
Jul 17, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Route gets sun only very late in the day. Hot days in mid summer are best. Long corner and roof traverse tend to seep in early season.