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Colchuck Balanced Rock
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Accendo Lunae(Let It Burn/West Face Var.) T 
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Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) T 
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Let it Burn T,S 
Milk n' Honey T 
Rikki Tikki Tavi T 
Scarface T 
Scoop, The T 
Tempest, The T 
West Face T 

West Face 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 6,138
Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: This is looking up at the long hand crack and gian...

Description 

This is possibly one of the best free routes around in a spectactular setting staring straight at Mt. Stuart.

I would recommend roping up for the initial scramble to reach the base of the climb. It is easy, but very loose.

P1 Fun but short finger crack(10+). P2 Easy chimney (5.7). P3 Long corner to a nice belay (5.9). P4 Easy pitch up to the base of a clean dihedral. P5 This pitch is a great long hand crack that is often wet, but it is still not that bad when wet (11a). P6 Start out with some liebacking to reach the roof, then traverse straight left out this monster roof to a nice belay ledge, short pitch, (11a). P7 This crux pitch takles the elegant 5.9 corner to a much smaller roof than the previous one. Climb out the left side of this roof (usually a fixed nut)to a stance (12-). P8 Battle up past two consecutive bulges using wide crack technique (5.9). P9 Easy ground gets you to the walk off around the right side of the summit(balanced) block.

Descent: Go down sandy scree to a point where you can easily go back to the base of the climb.

Protection 

Gear to 3.5 inches


Photos of West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Top of P1 (or P3 in Select Guide)
Top of P1 (or P3 in Select Guide)
Following the 5.9 corner, which was the top of P1 ...
Following the 5.9 corner, which was the top of P1 ...
5.9 crack and crux roof above.
5.9 crack and crux roof above.

Comments on West Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sol Wertkin
Aug 28, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The fixed nut on the crux pitch is gone. Consensus seems to be about 11c for the crux.
By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Jan 13, 2012

Account of the 1st Winter Ascent here
By Mike dandy Patz
Jul 1, 2013

What is the season for this? Temps too hot in mid summer?
thanks!
By blakeherrington
Jul 17, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Route gets sun only very late in the day. Hot days in mid summer are best. Long corner and roof traverse tend to seep in early season.