|Photos:||Recent | Best | Popular|
|Location:||33.76012, -116.6852 View Map Incorrect?|
|Administrators:||C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||Stephanie on Feb 21, 2006|
|re: Rain Rain Rain...where to climb thursday on the east side||gription||10 hours ago|
|Lake Arrowhead Sphinx Rock||Gregory D||1 day ago|
|re: Friendly 5.11s in josh||toddgordon||3 days ago|
|re: "Saturated Hulk" - (illustration)||SteveZ||3 days ago|
|To Bishop Then Ten Sleep -- who wants to come?||Charles Marks||4 days ago|
|re: Road to the Needles...||Mark D Evans||4 days ago|
|re: Orange County shop looking for a full-time Climbing Gear Guru (trad/big wall)||FrankPS||5 days ago|
|re: Fire in Big Bear Lake, any local info?||bobdelon||6 days ago|
|Comments on West Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Feb 23, 2006
I think the Description needs a bit more.
The West Face From the left side start with the Trought (5.4) and moves to the right and around to the Edge (5.11a). Most of the route lead to Lunch Ledge, then up to the top from there. Lunch Ledge is a ledge with a pine tree in it about 200 fett above Lunch Rock. The West Face has a number of moderate climbs on and is very popular.
The Descent is via the Friction Route (4th Class but is hard to find).
The approach is from the Climber trail to Lunch Rock. Go Left and up around Lunch rock to get to like the Trough, Dave's Deviation and Angel's Fright. Go Right and up to get to Human Fright and Finger Trip. Or continue around and right to get to climbs like El Camino Real, Coffin Nail, Jensen Jaunt, Traitor Horn and the Edge.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Jun 13, 2014
As Dpurf mentioned the Friction Descent is hard to find...we had to google it (good thing my partner had 4g up at the summit) and we found this immensely helpful post on a forum regarding this very thing, copied and pasted here for your benefit:
"From the top of Fingertrip, walk up the slabs and blocky terrain for a few minutes until you see two garage-sized boulders with bushes and trees growing in between and around them off towards the right. Scramble up easy blocks between these two large boulders. As soon as you are between them, immediately go down and right, through some small trees to a short steep section. Down-climb this using chimney moves with giant handholds. From here, you zig-zag down the rock on ledges, with a few butt-slides. Generally trend left when facing out on your way down. Once you reach the ground, follow a loose trail down to the Open Book and hang a right towards your bags.
I highly recommend you buy a guidebook from Nomad Ventures in Idyllwild. It'll be worth the investment so you can be sure you're climbing the route you want."
---From user Ryan Strickland
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.