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Routes Sorted L to R R to L Alpha |
BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000 DescriptionThese are the routes you can see from the parking lot. They are all accessed by the west face approach and encompass all routes from the NE shoulder on the left to the large leaning pillar on top of the SW buttress (Durrance pillar) on the right. The routes on the West face are some of the cleanest and most accessible routes on the tower. Ultra-classics include Carol's crack, McCarthy's west face, El Matador, Tugley Wood, and many more. As with the other sides of the tower, the "good" climbing is on the lower 2/3 with easy bolted rappels before the less appealing rock. Most routes will require a two-rope descent. Getting ThereLeave the main trail shortly after the trail starts heading south parallel to the tower, at the same place the Durrance approach leaves the trail. Hike up the boulderfield to the base of the tower. Locate the obvious stem box with two five-foot wide dihedrals facing each other for 150' and a ledge at the end of the left pillar (El Matador). Most west face routes are left of here. Right of El Matador, see Durrance Approach. Sparse poison ivy is often encountered on the hike/scramble north to Carol's crack area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Face:
Tulgey Wood 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Fractal 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
Jerry's Kids 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Carl's Face 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet
One Way Sunset 5.10c Trad, 4 pitches, 440 feet, Grade II
Spank The Monkey 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
El Matador 5.10d Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III
Way Layed 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet
Mr. Clean 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet
Carol's Crack 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 320 feet, Grade II
California Dreaming 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Park Politics 5.11b R Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet
McCarthy West Face/Hong 5.11c Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet
Bloodguard 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet
Deli Express 5.11d Trad, 3 pitches, 375 feet, Grade II
Digital Extraction 5.11d Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet
Avalon 5.11d Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet
A Bridge Too Far 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad 5.12c Trad, 80 feet
Featured Route For West Face
 A super-fun route on the west face. This is apparently a good way to summit on the west face, but most parties do not climb beyond the 2nd pitch. The description here only includes the 1st 2 pitches. The 1st pitch is very popular.This climb can be identified by the prominent roof on the first pitch. The 2nd pitch is directly left of the column forming the left wall of El Matador's stem box. P1- beginning just to the left of the start of El Matador, scramble easily up to a flake below the ob...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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