West Face Traverse
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Route finding will probably not be much of an issue on this route. The first pitch is likely the crux.
Pitch 1: Climb the obvious weakness in the corner to a ledge. Traverse north on the ledge to the far side of the west face.
Pitch 2: Take the easiest line up and trending right.
Descend the south side of Tombstone as described on the Tombstone page. West Face Traverse starts near the first obvious rock bench that affords a view of the west face.
The end of the 1st pitch is at a anchor of 2 bolts and 1 piton. The second pitch is long so a few extra slings may be useful. There are tree anchors at top although the leader may want to extend the anchor to improve communications.
Rack suggestion (from Robin): "A double set of cams to #2 and a single set of nuts would be sufficient for the route. You could also probably do it with a single set of cams and doubles of nuts."
BETA PHOTO: Randy finishing through the traverse on Pitch 1.
|Comments on West Face Traverse
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 9, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13
A fun route with easy climbing a good pro.
I did on this 6-8-08. You don't need anything bigger than a #2 C4, although I did place two of them on the final pitch. I used some small cams too. A double set of cams to #2 and a single set of nuts would be sufficient for the route. You could also probably do it with a single set of cams and doubles of nuts, but I haven't tried that yet.