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 ADVANCED
Chimney Rock - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ballet T 
Break Dancing T 
Damper T 
Dirty Dancing T 
Dyno in the Dark T 
Howard's Horror, Direct T 
Pinched Rib T 
West Face Overhang T 

West Face Overhang 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,432
Submitted By: Donno on Nov 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Description 

This climb is located at the left end of the west face of Chimney Rock. Start just right of a large boulder and head up into a short chimney. Then up and right, up and right and up.

This is a good climb for a new leader to learn about slings, rope drag, and setting a belay. Perhaps break the climb into 2 pitches to avoid serious rope drag, and if doing so belay just before or after the traverse under the roof.

There are bolts on top to rap the backside and into the "chimney". You can scramble down, or scramble up to the top of The Flue, and rap again.

Protection 

gear to 3"


Photos of West Face Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Jason in the chimney - I don't care for chimneys b...
Jason in the chimney - I don't care for chimneys b...
You can see the chimney here, and far in the right...
BETA PHOTO: You can see the chimney here, and far in the right...
Jason P on the fun and spicy traverse that gives t...
Jason P on the fun and spicy traverse that gives t...
Chrystal rapping off the West face. It might look ...
BETA PHOTO: Chrystal rapping off the West face. It might look ...
West Face Overhang
BETA PHOTO: West Face Overhang
"West Face Overhang". Photo by Blitzo.
"West Face Overhang". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on West Face Overhang Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 26, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a decent moderate well worth hopping on if in the vicinity. Easily done in a single pitch with lots of slings, which is perhaps the best way to do this route.

It's hard to believe a climber would have route-finding difficulties on this climb as it's an obvious crack system. Another descent option after rapping from the summit is to circle around towards Pinched Rib and downclimb an easy crack.
By Woody Stark
Feb 16, 2005

The dotted line on the picture on this site is not the route I climbed yesterday using the Bartlett guide. I'd like clarification.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 30, 2007

An interesting climb with a little of everything: crack, slab, chimney, traverse. I can't figure out why the lower section moves left and then back to the right; the multiple crack system straight up between these points is no harder than grade and looks easy to protect. I recommend the 5.10b direct finish when possible.
By MattG.
Dec 22, 2008

The dotted line in the picture shows the route I did. Does that help?
By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 25, 2010

We rapped off the WEST face with a 60m rope without incident, ending up just thirty feet right of the route's start. This seems much more logical than the other options described. While it may look like you're asking for your rope to get stuck in the upper crack if you rap this way, that crack is wide and probably won't snag your rope.
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Apr 18, 2010

Rapping with a 60m+ is definitely the way to go. Just be cognizant of the end of your rope.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 3, 2012

I would recommend doing this with plenty of daylight left. Getting off of this rock can be a real pain since there are no rap rings at the top (that we could find). The rope drag near the top in the crack was horrible, especially after the long traverse!

We went straight up the middle section instead of going to the left - a bit spicier than 5.7 for sure.

In retrospect, we should have done this route in two pitches....