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 ADVANCED
The Old Settler
Select Route:
Black September 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 
Complete Northwest Ridge 
Contact Zone, The 
Duck a L'Orange 
East Buttress of the South Peak 
Mars Western 
South to North Traverse 
Standard Route 
Totally Spurious 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 
West Buttress of the South Peak 
West Couloir 
West Face of the North Peak 

West Face of the North Peak 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Ed Zenger and partner - late 1970s.
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 18, 2009
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Description 

Begin near the bottom of the Standard Route ramp and climb more or less directly up to the north summit, following the easiest line. Reported as loose and unpleasant by the FA party, this climb has consequently not had a known repeat.


Location 

Approach from Daiphy Lake over talus as per the Standard Route.

Descend via the Standard Route ramp from the north summit - central summit col or via the north gully descent off the north peak.


Protection 

Light rack, double ropes (in case one gets cut) and helmet



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