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The Old Settler
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Black September T 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 
Complete Northwest Ridge T 
Contact Zone, The T 
Duck a L'Orange T 
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Mars Western T 
South to North Traverse T 
Standard Route T 
Totally Spurious T 
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West Buttress of the South Peak T 
West Couloir T 
West Face of the North Peak T 

West Face of the North Peak 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Ed Zenger and partner - late 1970s.
Page Views: 99
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 18, 2009

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Description 

Begin near the bottom of the Standard Route ramp and climb more or less directly up to the north summit, following the easiest line. Reported as loose and unpleasant by the FA party, this climb has consequently not had a known repeat.

Location 

Approach from Daiphy Lake over talus as per the Standard Route.

Descend via the Standard Route ramp from the north summit - central summit col or via the north gully descent off the north peak.

Protection 

Light rack, double ropes (in case one gets cut) and helmet


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