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Lambda Wall
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West Face of Lambda 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 347
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Dec 10, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Start of the West Face route. Photo Marc Tarnosky.

Description 

p1: follow the V trough feature to a stance near a small tree.

p2: follow the line of least resistance up then left and belay below a prominent roof (the Oven, the cube feature one can view from the approach).

p3: go left around the roof, up and then right and belay on top of the "Oven".

p4: climb up and right, then continue right up a right facing dihedral and go for the top.

Location 

The route starts in the obvious trough like feature on the left side of the west face (right of the big gash). Descent: walk right, east, to the regular rap route.

Protection 

Basic trad rack with many long runners.


Photos of West Face of Lambda Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 4, starting here from top of the Oven.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4, starting here from top of the Oven.
Looking up Pitch 3 after the Oven. Photo Marc Tarn...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Pitch 3 after the Oven. Photo Marc Tarn...
West face of Lambda Wall from approach. Photo Marc...
West face of Lambda Wall from approach. Photo Marc...
West Face of Lambda Wall, topo. Staying in the dih...
BETA PHOTO: West Face of Lambda Wall, topo. Staying in the dih...
The traverse on Pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: The traverse on Pitch 3.
This is where you turn off the normal trail to the...
BETA PHOTO: This is where you turn off the normal trail to the...

Comments on West Face of Lambda Add Comment
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By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 10, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Approach: Turn off the regular trail to Lambda Wall above the large tree and traverse left on easy but featured ground with generally friendly vegetation (see photo for details).

Pitch 1: 120 ft, 5.7+. Go up the large dihedral - very easy at first, sustained and interesting climbing later, one piton. Note a large loose-looking rock below a yellow-green decorated roof. Go left of the rock and exit the dihedral to the right immediately after using the widest crack for hands. Traverse right on easy ground to the next left-facing corner. Going up to the small tree gets chossy for a few feet just below the tree, or you can go through the yucca to the left.

Pitch 2: 110 ft, 5.7. From the tree go up and slightly left on a somewhat slabby terrain with smaller holds and few small pro placements (this is the crux section, it goes down to 5.6 or less after that). Traverse left on an easy almost-ledge to a comphy ledge just right of a dead tree with a tat on it. (With a small live tree below.) Go up and right past a tiny bush. Continue right past a piton, then up a steep but easy corner on jugs, and pop up onto a slab. Belay from below the head wall.


Pitch 3: 100 ft, 5.6. Head left at the top of the slab past another piton, or two if you count the one in the wall. Continue traversing left under the house-size block - The Oven. Once past it, go straight up on good holds keeping the rope out of the crack at the corner of The Oven. Belay from the top of the Oven.


Pitch 4: 90 ft, 5.7+. Continue up an unfortunately dirty but super-easy gully to the overhangs above. Go up the right-leaning, right-facing corner made of a couple of distinct steps. Itís a bit thin at the start, but the underclings and laybacks after that are solid. Once you clear the second one, continue up and to the left through a narrow squeeze. Stay left on easy slab to the top-out, which is on the walk-off from Yellow Brick Road.
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