p1: follow the V trough feature to a stance near a small tree.
p2: follow the line of least resistance up then left and belay below a prominent roof (the Oven, the cube feature one can view from the approach).
p3: go left around the roof, up and then right and belay on top of the "Oven".
p4: climb up and right, then continue right up a right facing dihedral and go for the top.
The route starts in the obvious trough like feature on the left side of the west face (right of the big gash). Descent: walk right, east, to the regular rap route.
Basic trad rack with many long runners.
BETA PHOTO: A look up at Pitch 4. Photo Marc Tarnosky.
West face of Lambda Wall from approach. Photo Marc...
BETA PHOTO: This is where you turn off the normal trail to the...
BETA PHOTO: Start of the West Face route. Photo Marc Tarnosky.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Pitch 3 after the Oven. Photo Marc Tarn...
|By Marta Reece|
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 10, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Approach: Turn off the regular trail to Lambda Wall above the large tree and traverse left on easy but featured ground with generally friendly vegetation (see photo for details).
Pitch 1: 120 ft, 5.7+, go up the large dihedral - very easy at first, sustained and interesting climbing later, one piton. Note a large loose-looking rock below a yellow-green decorated roof. Exit dihedral to the right at this point using the widest crack for hands. Traverse right on easy ground to the next left-facing corner. Going up it get chossy for a few feet just below the small tree, or you can go through the yucca to the left.
Pitch 2: 140 ft, 5.7+, From the tree go up and slightly left on a somewhat slabby terrain with smaller holds and few small pro placements (this is the crux section, it goes down to 5.6 for the rest of the pitch). Traverse left on an easy almost-ledge to a comphy ledge just right of a dead tree with a tat on it. (With a small live tree below.) Go up and right past a tiny bush. Continue right past a piton, then up a steep but easy section on jugs, and pop up onto a slab. Take the crack at the top of the slab heading left past another piton. When a bulge on the left of the crack makes it awkward, avoid this by staying on the slab. There are good handholds to be had and yet another piton. The nook to the right of the Oven provides a decent enough belay.
Pitch 3: 100 ft, 5.6, traverse left under the oven - good hands most of the way, generally in the crack at the base the Oven, feet not so much. The crux move is to get to the end of the traverse. Once past it, go straight up on good holds. Continue up an unfortunately dirty and super-easy gully to the overhangs above, staying basically to the right.
Pitch 4: 60 ft, 5.7+, go up the right-leaning, right-facing corner made of four or so distinct steps. Itís a bit thin at the start, but the underclings and laybacks after that are solid. Once the last one is cleared, stay to the left. There is just one steep and awkward but easy step to the top-out, which is on the walk-off from Yellow Brick Road.