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Steeple Peak
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West face Major dihedral 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tim Wolfe, Chris Abbott, Susan Wolfe 1995
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 689
Submitted By: Tim Wolfe on Aug 6, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: This is a topo of the route - it is very obvious


This is a great bit of climbing - especially if it gets some action and the lichens and vegetation clean up. You can get fairly good belays if you are careful, but some are hanging and uncomfortable.

Begin at the base of the obvious left facing corner on the west face of Steeple Peak. Access via a grassy ramp that extends along the entire base of the west face.
Pitch 1: Climb the corner until it becomes obviously less well protected and more difficult above. Belay (hanging) in the crack left of a small ledge. 5.9 - 130 ft
Pitch 2: Climb/stem up the difficult and poorly protected corner above. A wire can be threaded through a wafer shaped chickenhead in the grove like corner about 15 feet above the belay. After another 15 feet the crack opens up, and better protection/ easier climbing ensues. Belay near the end of your rope where a flake appears to the left of the crack, and a 4 inch horizontal ledge occurs. 5.10 R - 160 ft
Pitch 3: Climb the flake then the vegetated 2 inch crack/corner (clean the plants out for protection) to a left leaning roof. Undercling out increasingly thin holds to finger tip liebacks then bigger holds. Belay on the obvious ledge. 5.10d 100 ft.
Pitch 4: Climb through the lieback/flared undercling directly above to the roof. Hand traverse out the roof on thin holds/ poor feet to left edge, then to the top. 5.11 100 ft


Approach: Hike up to the classic Steeple Peak north ridge route then traverse right along the grassy ramps to the obvious large left facing corner.
Descent: Hike over and finish up the final pitches of the north ridge route (the awesome chimney)then descent the south side of that formation as described in the Kelsey guide.


Standard alpine granite rack.

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By mattharon
Oct 9, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Bolting is illegal in Wilderness areas. This climb is in a wilderness area. Place a piton if anything. Just FYI.
By zoso
Oct 9, 2015

Wrong. Using a POWER DRILL is verboten. One can use a bolt gun, since you can hunt with guns in wilderness.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Boise, ID
Oct 9, 2015

Technically, the policy that bans bolts also bans any other fixed anchors, including slings and fixed nuts. It remains an open issue but the spirit of the Wilderness Act suggests hand drilling or placing a pin, while existing policy (which the Access Fund and others managed to defund enforcement) bans everything, including bail slings in case of emergency.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 29, 2015

Yeah, good point. I removed the comment saying belay bolts would make it a classic. We did it safely with no hammer, drill or pitons (my wife was 8 months pregnant and she was able to climb it) and I am totally in line with the no power drills ever here in the Winds. (I am going to have to vote for carrying a hand drill for safety while new routing in this range though - rarely needed but prudent). The climbing on this route protects fine. Just be thoughtful about finding safe belays - maybe bring a long rope and just go until you get a better belay than we had.

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