|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Andrew Gram on Apr 13, 2001|
|Seasonal Closures - all are lifted - 10/25/14 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on West Face [Easter Rock]||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Sean O'Dell
Apr 3, 2002
|So...just out of curiousity, with no pro, how does the descent work? Downclimb the 5.6?|
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 4, 2002
|..."Not much" is not the same as "no pro" - I did get a piece or two in on the lead as well, though I wouldn't have wanted to fall on them.|
By Stewart M. Green
Oct 1, 2003
I have always loved this route. Jim Dunn, Billy Westbay, and I used to solo up and down back in the '70s. If you're not a bold leader, then split the route into 2 pitches. Belay on the ledge from a large boulder. That way the leader of the last bit can have a spot on the hard section off the ledge.
I replaced the old piton anchors, which wiggled!, four years ago with 2 beefy 1/2" bolts. After rapping, you can set up a toprope on the North Ridge (5.9), the East Face (5.10), Silhouette on the south ridge (5.8), or the lower boulder problems on the right side of the lower west face. Also a good but sandy bouldering traverse is along the base of the east face.
Another good lead (5.7) on the west face goes up to the ledge, then off the left side of the ledge up a face past a 1/2" bolt without a hanger (stolen) to a fixed piton and on to the summit.
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 1, 2009
|I climbed the West Face Left today and placed a #2 and 0.5 Camalots before reaching the bolts. They were both good pieces and I was confident they would hold a fall.|