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West Face [Easter Rock] T 

West Face [Easter Rock] 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Harvey Carter
Page Views: 611
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Apr 13, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Isaac leading the West Face.

Seasonal Closures - some are lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climbs the side of Easter Rock that faces towards Keyhole Rock. Climb a steep, unprotected face on loose edges to a large shelf. Walk up the shelf to the base of the summit ridge, and climb a little more steep rock to the top. Not much gear, and what there is won't do you a lot of good. Still, not a terrible climb, and you bag a summit with a good view of the rest of the garden.

Addendum: There are 2 starts to this climb. You can start West Face Left, 5.5 R/X, or West Face Right, 5.5 R/X. It is best to consider this a solo.

Protection 

Not much. You might be able to place tricams in potholes or loop a boulder with a long piece of webbing. There is a fixed rap anchor on top.

Descent 

There is a fixed anchor atop this formation and you can rappel off to the West with a single rope.


Photos of West Face [Easter Rock] Slideshow Add Photo
Isaac passing the first bolt.
Isaac passing the first bolt.

Comments on West Face [Easter Rock] Add Comment
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By Sean O'Dell
Apr 3, 2002

So...just out of curiousity, with no pro, how does the descent work? Downclimb the 5.6?
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 4, 2002

..."Not much" is not the same as "no pro" - I did get a piece or two in on the lead as well, though I wouldn't have wanted to fall on them.
By Stewart M. Green
Oct 1, 2003

I have always loved this route. Jim Dunn, Billy Westbay, and I used to solo up and down back in the '70s. If you're not a bold leader, then split the route into 2 pitches. Belay on the ledge from a large boulder. That way the leader of the last bit can have a spot on the hard section off the ledge.

I replaced the old piton anchors, which wiggled!, four years ago with 2 beefy 1/2" bolts. After rapping, you can set up a toprope on the North Ridge (5.9), the East Face (5.10), Silhouette on the south ridge (5.8), or the lower boulder problems on the right side of the lower west face. Also a good but sandy bouldering traverse is along the base of the east face.

Another good lead (5.7) on the west face goes up to the ledge, then off the left side of the ledge up a face past a 1/2" bolt without a hanger (stolen) to a fixed piton and on to the summit.
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 1, 2009

I climbed the West Face Left today and placed a #2 and 0.5 Camalots before reaching the bolts. They were both good pieces and I was confident they would hold a fall.