This climbs the side of Easter Rock that faces towards Keyhole Rock. Climb a steep, unprotected face on loose edges to a large shelf. Walk up the shelf to the base of the summit ridge, and climb a little more steep rock to the top. Not much gear, and what there is won't do you a lot of good. Still, not a terrible climb, and you bag a summit with a good view of the rest of the garden.
Addendum: There are 2 starts to this climb. You can start West Face Left, 5.5 R/X, or West Face Right, 5.5 R/X. It is best to consider this a solo.
Not much. You might be able to place tricams in potholes or loop a boulder with a long piece of webbing. There is a fixed rap anchor on top.
There is a fixed anchor atop this formation and you can rappel off to the West with a single rope.
Isaac passing the first bolt.
|By Sean O'Dell|
Apr 3, 2002
So...just out of curiousity, with no pro, how does the descent work? Downclimb the 5.6?
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 4, 2002
..."Not much" is not the same as "no pro" - I did get a piece or two in on the lead as well, though I wouldn't have wanted to fall on them.
|By Stewart M. Green|
Oct 1, 2003
I have always loved this route. Jim Dunn, Billy Westbay, and I used to solo up and down back in the '70s. If you're not a bold leader, then split the route into 2 pitches. Belay on the ledge from a large boulder. That way the leader of the last bit can have a spot on the hard section off the ledge.
I replaced the old piton anchors, which wiggled!, four years ago with 2 beefy 1/2" bolts. After rapping, you can set up a toprope on the North Ridge (5.9), the East Face (5.10), Silhouette on the south ridge (5.8), or the lower boulder problems on the right side of the lower west face. Also a good but sandy bouldering traverse is along the base of the east face.
Another good lead (5.7) on the west face goes up to the ledge, then off the left side of the ledge up a face past a 1/2" bolt without a hanger (stolen) to a fixed piton and on to the summit.
|By Bosier Parsons|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 1, 2009
I climbed the West Face Left today and placed a #2 and 0.5 Camalots before reaching the bolts. They were both good pieces and I was confident they would hold a fall.