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Montezuma Tower
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West Face Direct TR 

West Face Direct 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jimmy Dunn, Bob D'Antonio, 1996
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: Newton on Jan 7, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Near the top of the route.

Reopened after the floods. 2015 Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>


A short 5.7 chimney gains the large ledge, then it heads straight up the face to the tower anchors. The climbing is thin and delicate with some crumbly mini-conglomerate near the top. This could make for an exciting sport pitch were it to be bolted.


TR with bolted anchors. Access by one of the other routes on Montezuma's Tower.

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