West Face [Bastille]
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The route begins immediately right of Hair City, following the crack system seen in the photo below. The first pitch is great and I'm surprised it hasn't been added to the site.
P1- Climb the very thin crack (11a- one move) to a good ledge. One can avoid the thin crack by starting in from the right and traversing left to the ledge above the thin crack. Climb the crack and flake system past two pitons (the first of which is badly bent) to a bulge. Clip the pin above the bulge and make a funky face move out left, then move back right into the crack system (10a/b). Climb up and left, joining Hair City for the remainder of the pitch. Belay from the bolts at the top of the huge pillar.
Either rap from here or continue with one of three options: P3 of West Buttress (5.7), P2 of Hair City (5.9), or the actual continuation of the West Face:
P2- Climb the corner/roof up and right of the belay (5.8). Continue upwards (easy 5th) to the top of the Bastille.
Nuts, including RPs. Set of cams up to #2 Camalot.
Jenny Schillinger tops out on the West Face of the...
Clipping the crux pin on P1. The 11b var goes up ...
Derek on W Face, check out the shoes and gear.
|Comments on West Face [Bastille]
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 16, 2002
For once, an 11a in Eldo that felt soft for the grade. Perhaps shorter stature and slenderer fingers might have been an advantage....
|By Bryson Slothower|
Jul 25, 2002
It's possible to avoid crossing over to Hair City by staying right above the last pin at the 5.10 section and climbing up to the chimney on the right side of the giant flake (5.7s). I did not see the bolt Rossiter shows in his topo for this secton but the climbing is pretty straight forward. Both pitches are quite good, I'm not sure why it doesn't see more traffic...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 30, 2003
rating: 5.11a PG13
I did it on Saturday with my girlfriend, who is short, small fingered, and very strong (X-gymnast). Here's what it boils down to- I though it was incredibly easy at the grade, she thought it was very hard (she has done other 11's). We dissected what occurred when we returned to the base. As usual, it's all about sequence- one move ...if you get it right. Not to sandbag or downplay that Steve can climb circles around me, but I don't think the edges are marginal at all- if your feet are in the right place (not the big holds) then the hands you use are all pretty positive, and I did it in the direct sun in the afternoon. Then I went and felt desperate on Supremacy Crack...
|By Shane Zentner|
Jul 5, 2004
I followed the West Face first pitch and struggled at the bulge. The 5.11 start was difficult, however, I had a harder time getting around the 5.10a bulge, getting onto the slab (5.10a/b), then moving right. Good, balancy moves over good air made this pitch exciting.
|By Keith Leary|
Aug 11, 2005
My [friends] and I have been on this pitch at least three different times. It is a great climb. The 10c way is fun, but the 11a/b way is much better. For us the moves are beta intensive. At first it felt much harder than 11, but after working (read TR) it into submision it still is very hard for us, but we can do it on TR. John did manage to get it with one hang at the crux pin. The pin has held us on [several] falls and you can back it up with a good cam a foot below. The problem is that we cannot put in any more pro until we a standing on the small sloping ledge four feet above the pin. That puts fear in me. We finish by going [straight] up above two more pins and staying just left of the chimney. I also agree that the 5.11a start is very easy for its grade. Very nice moves.
|By Brian Weinstein|
Sep 2, 2007
I thoroughly enjoyed this route. Classic Eldo style in running 'er out on smaller gear. There is a tricky blue TCU placement from a steep stance right below a broken knifeblade that enabled me to proceed through the crux, with a little caution.
Jul 3, 2008
Wow, great route but I also had a harder time with the bulge than the thin crack start.
Did the start clean even after plugging up the good finger lock with a yellow Alien but, got worked on the bulge!! I don't know if it was trying to fiddle with gear or just not wanting to commit over those bent ass pins or what but after reading these comments I for sure have to go back an redeem myself!!!
Good fun stuff though!
I friggin' love Eldo!!
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 15, 2009
Why so little mention of the 11b variation? It's very fun: exposed, and a bit bouldery.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 22, 2012
West Face Double Direct, 5.11a PG.
Take direct start via thin crack (5.10c/d) to a stance. Climb dual cracks to the bulge (pin, small gear) and instead of stepping left, continue up and slightly right. Another crux is encountered at the pin which can be backed up with a 1" cam. Great moves on good holds. Continue 25 more feet to a stance.
I didn't find a bolted anchor where Levin indicates. I didn't continue up so was forced to rap off two stoppers. They are yours, or leave them for others. Excellent route!