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The Watchtower
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Highway Robbery S 
Watchtower Corner, The T 
West Face AKA Cold Feelings T 

West Face AKA Cold Feelings 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 275'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Claire Carren & George Brasieck, 7/22/77, pitch 1: John Auld, EVD, 2009, pitch 2/3: Todd Bol, EVD, 2011?
Page Views: 658
Submitted By: tbol on Aug 7, 2011

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George Bracksieck is visible just above a tree in ...

Description 

This route is one of only two on the West face. Dan Hare confirmed that (from Gillett's book there was some speculation) the upper corner has been climbed at 5.10+

P1: 5.6, head straight up cracks and jugs for 60 feet to fixed pro. It is surprisingly exposed.

P2: 5.6, head straight up the same crack system with a little laybacking. Step onto the slab and follow a thinnish crack directly through a small bulge staying left of a prominent tree. Then gain a ledge with fixed pro. 80 feet.

P3: 5.7, head left from the belay to gain the prominent crack system. Follow this until it begins to arc right and peters out. Here, step left and gain another thin crack below a small tree. Follow this crack to a ledge below the upper most headwall and take a broken, right-facing corner to the top. Now you are on the summit of The Watchtower. Walk off to the east. You may have Cold Feelings on this route if 5.7 is your limit. 130 feet.

Location 

This is the furthest right climb on the wall.

Protection 

Take RPs and small cams and maybe doubles up to #1 Camalot.


Photos of West Face AKA Cold Feelings Slideshow Add Photo
West Face.
BETA PHOTO: West Face.
P1.
P1.

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By George Bracksieck
Jun 29, 2012

On 7/22/77, I led Claire Carren up the rounded buttress pictured above. At times, we might have been more to the left of the pictured line, but that's hard to say without looking closely at the rock again, not that it's important. In any case, our finish was the same as the pictured line. I wrote down 5.7 for a rating. Used only wedges, hexes, and slings. A tourist sent me a poor-quality print of us on the climb. Maybe I can find it.
By tbol
Aug 23, 2012

George, thanks for the beta. We figured someone had to have climbed this side of the crag at some point. You could wander all over the face doing many variations, all about 5.7 I think. Pretty fun! Post that picture if you can find it.
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Ridgway, CO
Jul 7, 2014

Climbed this today lured in by the moderate appearance of the first pitch. Combined pitches 1 and 2 with a 60m. Stepped up and right rather than traversing left from belay bolt atop pitch two following a series of flakes to just below the mini roof visible in beta photo directly above marked bolt. We stepped left around roof. Airy and exposed with good gear after most of the unnerving high-steps. Maintains 5.7R rating.
By George Bracksieck
Jan 9, 2015

In '77, Claire and I did all three pitches, topped out, and walked off of the top. This was long before the house was built. The pic shows me leading only low on the route, because, I assume, the tourist/photographer didn't want to watch for hours. I had wanted to lead the clean, right-leaning dihedral near the top, but it seemed too hard to reach (based on what we could see once we were high on the route), so we topped out to its left, where the CF route line goes.
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