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West Elden
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West Elden 


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Lat, Long: 35.2542, -111.6235 Map
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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 21, 2006

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Bouldering at West Elden in the old days: Jim Doni...

Description 

The West Elden climbing area is made up of a 80' tall Dacite cliff which hosts a large number of traditional routes. This climbing expanse houses excellent crack, slab and face climbs of all grades. West Elden has morning shade and afternoon sun. The crag also sits at about 7000' making it a great summertime get away. It is climbable in the fall and spring, but don't' count on it as weather in Flagstaff is difficult to predict.

In his excellent and comprehensive book, A Cheap Way to Fly, Tim Toula breaks West Elden into Uptown, which is north of the fence, and Downtown, which is south of the fence. To aid in the use of his guide I have kept the same labels here.


Getting There 

Drive north out of Flagstaff on Highway 180 for about three miles. After passing the Museum of Northern Arizona (which is on the left) look for a right hand turn on to Shultz Pass Road. Take this turn and drive about 1/4 mile to a fork in the road. The left fork continues on Shultz Pass Road while the right is Mount Elden Lookout Road. Take the right fork and drive about three and a half miles to the parking area. Approximately two miles of this drive is on pavement and one and a half miles on a well maintained dirt road. The parking for West Elden is in two pullouts on the right hand side of the road. There is a small kiosk at the first pullout.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Elden:
Ralph Macchio   V5+     Boulder, 12 feet   Downtown
Five Easy Pieces   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Uptown
Baxter Crack   5.6     Trad, 60 feet   Uptown
Zit Slab   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Uptown
Right Deception Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Uptown
Cracktus   5.7     Trad, 60 feet   Downtown
TT's Terror   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Uptown
Doug Scott Route   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Downtown
Left Deception   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Uptown
Flameout   5.9-     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Downtown
Megadeath   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Uptown
The Prow   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Uptown
Middle Deception Crack   5.10 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Uptown
La Diosa    5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Downtown
Retirement Crack   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Uptown
Twilight Zone   5.11- PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Downtown
Bold is Love   5.11     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   Uptown
Now Smell This   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Uptown
Stem Corner   5.12-     Trad, Sport, 60 feet   Downtown
John's Jugs   5.12     Trad, 65 feet   Uptown
Browse More Classics in West Elden

Featured Route For West Elden
The top of Bold is Love. The Prow can be seen in the background.

Bold is Love 5.11  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Uptown
Start ten feet right of the initially dirty, mossy crack system, on a flake jug on the face. Climb good, slabby features left and up to the crack system previously mentioned. Climb a few moves up the low angle wide crack(beware of your rope falling into a slot just above), then angle slightly left up the slabby dihedral with a seam that offers some protection just before a ledge is encountered on your left. Use the ledge, or not, and continue up the crack line that leads to the steep, striking p...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ


Photos of West Elden Slideshow Add Photo
Hepcat cruises Bold is Love, a new route at West Elden put up on the lead in April, 2008.

Hepcat cruises Bold is Love, a new route at West E...


Comments on West Elden Add Comment
Show which comments
By ericm
Jun 14, 2011

Hey all,

About 10 years ago, on lead with hooks and a hand drill I bolted an arete to the left of the Grass Crack which is left of the Flameout. I spoke with Baxter and he did not believe that it had been done. This route was chopped, which kind of bummed me out. Does anyone know any history behind this arete- If I stepped on toes I want to apologize but I am unsure. I would like to re bolt this route because it is good.

Sincerely,
Eric


PS- The Black Crack needs an anchor!

By Colin Cox
May 16, 2013

Delete!

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 16, 2013

Delete?