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Cob Rock
Routes Sorted
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Aid Crack T 
Brownies In The Basin T,S 
Corn on the Cob T,S 
Crystal Arete 
Devil's Dream T 
East Crack T 
Empor T 
Empor Scary Variant T 
Face Problem 
Face Route T,TR 
Game, The 
Goat, The T,TR 
Headless Horseman, The 
Hug, The 
Hurley Direct T 
Huston Crack T 
Indistinction T,S 
Left Huge aka The Hug Left 
Mantle Arete 
Ms. Fanny Le Pump T 
Night Vision T,S 
North Face Center T 
North Face Left T 
Northwest Corner T 
Othello T 
Right Crack T 
Sleepy Hollow 
South Crack (Unknown) T 
Thunder Road S 
Under The Boardwalk 
Unknown T 
West Cracks T 
West Dihedral T 
West Rib T 
Unsorted Routes:

West Dihedral 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 738
Submitted By: Dane Casterson on May 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Start up the dihedral with good stemming, hands, and fists. Pull up onto slightly less steep terrain, make an awkward step and reach, and finish as for Northwest Corner. The crux is somewhere in the first 20 feet.

Watch out for some loose blocks and flakes before you pull. Would give it another star but the steep dihedral section is just a little short.

Another option for finishing is to turn the large roof to the right of where one would normally step left to finish Northwest Corner. There is plenty of good pro and looks like fun. Tried to turn it but it quickly spit me off with a vengeance. Just a guess because I didn't send it but maybe 11ish? Hands were good, but feet were tough.


Location 

This can be found on the west side of Cob Rock by hiking up the walk-off trail past the now bolted Brownies in the Basin a little further around the corner. It's the large, wide dihedral and is tough to miss. I recommend belaying on the large ledge directly at the base of the dihedral. Gain the ledge with an easy scramble.

Use the standard walk-off.


Protection 

Real light rack. A couple of two inch pieces and one three inch gets one up the wide dihedral. A couple stoppers and mid-range cams is plenty for the rest. There are two fixed pins under the roof of the Northwest Corner finish.



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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fantastic route! Looking up at the dihedral it looks overhanging and way hard. When you get up in it, you find there is much more to it than can be seen from the ground. Fun, fun!

By M Bageant
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I found the Boulder Canyon guidebook's sparse beta to be a little unhelpful. This route is the big, orange, semi-overhanging corner that starts from a big ledge (you could park a Volkswagon there) above the descent path. About 15-20' of 5.3ish climbing is required to gain the ledge; recommended that you either solo this part to prevent rope drag or have your belayer join you on the ledge.

Climb the big, orange corner toward the left side of the roof (fun!); look out to your left, and when you see a flat-topped pillar (shortly before climbing into the roof), you can traverse left about 10 feet (stepping over a void on good foot ledges) and belay from that pillar to end a first pitch (there is a fixed pin there). If you climb too high and miss the pillar, you might as well just keep going and link the two pitches indicated by the guidebook---the little left side of the roof looks intimidating but definitely goes at a very reasonable 5.8, and the second pitch is very short.