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Stately Pleasure Dome
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West Country T 

West Country 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Summers and John Fisher, July 1969
Season: summer
Page Views: 10,865
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jun 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (158)
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Pitch 3

Description 

P1. From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left just where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher.

P2. This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.

P3. Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.

P4. More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a belay after the crack runs out and the angle drops to 3rd class.

Location 

See photo for Stately Pleasure Dome

Protection 

standard full rack.


Photos of West Country Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Following P2 of West Country
Following P2 of West Country
Tamara on p2...seemed a little sustained/stiff for...
BETA PHOTO: Tamara on p2...seemed a little sustained/stiff for...
Looking up at the P2 corner
Looking up at the P2 corner
Routes facing the lake
BETA PHOTO: Routes facing the lake
John at the P3 anchor. P4 is the fun lie backing t...
John at the P3 anchor. P4 is the fun lie backing t...
Running it out on Pitch 3 of West Country
Running it out on Pitch 3 of West Country
Megan leading pitch 2
Megan leading pitch 2
Matt leading the awesome layback (P2?) of West Cou...
Matt leading the awesome layback (P2?) of West Cou...
Lisa Pritchett leading West Country 5.7
Lisa Pritchett leading West Country 5.7
Belays on West Country (the numbers correspond to ...
BETA PHOTO: Belays on West Country (the numbers correspond to ...

Comments on West Country Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 15, 2014
By Reedster
From: SLC, UT
Jul 3, 2007

I just did this route. It is an excellent first Tuolumne lead for an intermediate climber with limited multi-pitch lead experience. Truly what earns this climb three stars is the sustained nature of the lieback. It may sound silly to say about a 5.7. lieback... but it doesn't let up. I might subtract 1/2 of a star from the 3 simply because the crux pitch is not a full rope length. Don't miss this one unless the lineup looks like a zoo.
By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 7, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

A good line, but I found it to be much less fun than say "South Crack" or "The Boltway". More awkward.
Second pitch corner is sustained and can be hard to see your pro as you place it.
Third pitch is a bit runout - my smallest cam did not fit in the tiny crack near the end.
Fourth pitch is pretty straighforward.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Slipery on the lieback
By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 8, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

super fun, excellent "intro to Tuolumne" route, you can belay right out of your car if you want to! lieback is fun, slotting nuts in blindly every 10 feet, and pitch 3 has fun 20+ foot runouts on easy granite slab, don't miss it.
By Carquinez
May 25, 2010

Great route. The lieback can be a surpise if you are expecting easy 5.7. Because the lieback is so worn and slick from traffic, I believe the rating has been upped to 5.8.

JV
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Jun 29, 2010

The friction is still pretty awesome in that corner, you could slab climb next to it if you wanted- the only time it's 5.8 is the middle of a blazing hot day when you're sweating through your shoe rubber.
By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Aug 6, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

One of the best spots to climb in the meadows. Right above Tenaya lake and you get a great view of half dome at the top. Girlfriend loved it, good one to take the lady on to get warmed up to T Meadows climbing.
By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

P1 and 2 are the money pitches. Gets kinda slabby after that, but still fun.
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Aug 1, 2011

Great route, wife was NOT a fan of the descent. And she climbs in JTree all the time so isnt exactly new to "sketch-town" (her words) descents.

We had a blast climbing, and in no rush in the morning and still arrived on scene first.
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Had an epic adventure on this one. Did tne dirty layback to the sketchy runout friction for the first pitch by accident. Since my gf and i started really late and had a hard time finding the first pitch of the route, we were benighted at the top and had a very long nerve racking descent. Back at the car at11pm. Welcome to tuolumne.
By Mr. Hummus
From: SLC, Utah
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

After clipping in to my anchor at the top of pitch two I look over at the guy on hermaphrodite flake, and he says, "isn't that pitch sandbagged?!" I agreed. It was my first climb in Tuolumne, and I thought the layback crack to feel quite polished and awkward to place gear. Just about everyone else I talked to about the route said they thought pitch two was sandbagged.
So heads up for those just getting in to 5.7. It's a great route, but that crack on pitch two feels more like 5.8.
Some might consider pitch 3 a bit sparse on protection. I got to the bolted anchors and looked down and realized I had clipped 3 bolts and placed one cam on the 130 ft pitch. I laughed as I thought about the guidebook saying it's "well bolted by Tuolumne standards". Easy climbing but might feel runout.
Recommend to confident 5.7 climbers!
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jun 15, 2014

Crux is placing the gear on P2, the climbing is not too bad but the gear is awkward.