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The Old Settler
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Black September T 
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West Couloir 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b Mod. Snow

Type:  Trad, Snow, Alpine, 10000', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Jack Bryceland and BCMC party, June 1982
Season: winter-spring
Page Views: 132
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 18, 2009

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This route climbs the deep couloir immediately left of the West Buttress of the South Peak. Snow completely melts out of this couloir by early-mid July. On the first ascent, crevasses completely spanned the couloir and some had to be bypassed by adjacent rock; earlier in the season, the couloir offers continuous snow to 45 degrees.


Immediately left (north) of the West Buttress of the South Peak.

Descend via the same route if conditions permit or via the south ridge.


Ice axe, crampons, possibly some rock pro.

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