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Routes in The Old Settler
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Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 10000 ft (3030 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Jack Bryceland and BCMC party, June 1982 |
| Page Views: | 579 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Mar 18, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gates may be closed.
Details
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
Description
This route climbs the deep couloir immediately left of the West Buttress of the South Peak. Snow completely melts out of this couloir by early-mid July. On the first ascent, crevasses completely spanned the couloir and some had to be bypassed by adjacent rock; earlier in the season, the couloir offers continuous snow to 45 degrees.
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