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 ADVANCED
The Old Settler
Select Route:
Black September 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 
Complete Northwest Ridge 
Contact Zone, The 
Duck a L'Orange 
East Buttress of the South Peak 
Mars Western 
South to North Traverse 
Standard Route 
Totally Spurious 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 
West Buttress of the South Peak 
West Couloir 
West Face of the North Peak 

West Couloir 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I British: M 1b Mod. Snow

   
Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 10000', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I British: M 1b [details]
FA: Jack Bryceland and BCMC party, June 1982
Season: winter-spring
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 18, 2009
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Description 

This route climbs the deep couloir immediately left of the West Buttress of the South Peak. Snow completely melts out of this couloir by early-mid July. On the first ascent, crevasses completely spanned the couloir and some had to be bypassed by adjacent rock; earlier in the season, the couloir offers continuous snow to 45 degrees.


Location 

Immediately left (north) of the West Buttress of the South Peak.

Descend via the same route if conditions permit or via the south ridge.


Protection 

Ice axe, crampons, possibly some rock pro.



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