West Corner  5.1

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet Consensus:  5.2 [details] FA:  Dick Hart, Bill McMorris (1948) Submitted By:  Scott Frankel on Dec 31, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Start of 'West Corner'. Follow the ramp of vegetat...

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Access: MORE INFO >>> For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Good beginner's lead route to the top of the Thumb. This was the original route way back in 1948! Originally rated Fourth class, but it's really a low 5th class climb. Actually, the first pitch is fourth class, but the 2nd pitch is fifth class.

Pitch 1: Follow fourth class easy scramble from left to right up a ramp. Continue up crack to tree to belay from.

Pitch 2: Traverse left towards another tree and across a low angle sloped face to a crack system on the left, then up a wide dual crack system to an overhang. Traverse right under the overhang across another low angle sloped face and then up a wide crack to the top.

Location 

Look for the left to right vegetation choked sloping rock on the South West corner of the thumb. It's just to the right of an obvious crack and about 20 feet right of 'The Settlement (5.7)'.

Protection 

Medium to large pro. Placements are pretty straight forward for most of this climb. Belay the first pitch from the tree. Dual rope rappel from the top: three bolts to a chain with rap rings. You *might* be able to rappel down with a single 60 meter rope with rope stretch, but I wouldn't chance it.

Photos of West Corner Slideshow

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Suzanne finishing the second pitch of 'West Face'

Susan starting her rappel off of Tom's Thumb.