West Coast Connection  WI4- M4 PG13

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Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  WI4- M4 [details] FA:  Cameron Coppock, February 11, 2012 New Route:  Yes Season:  Winter Submitted By:  Cameron Coppock on Apr 25, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Finishing on the parallel cracks at the top on the...

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Description 

The climb begins with a low angle rubble filled off width. Follow this with easy hooks and some ice to a solid clear flow just below the large rock one third of the way up. Place a screw and/or cam here as the ice is usually marginal from here on up. The crux and best part of the route begins here. Stem and hook up slightly overhanging rock to a narrow ice runnel that forces a strange OW struggle. Follow this to another overhang above a small stance with some small gear. Work up parallel cracks and stem up tenuous placements to a dirty finish.
The rock at this particular location is smooth, and the ice slow to form, so there are few good mixed placements making this climb more challenging than it appears from the ground.The top section is also dirty.

Location 

Sixty feet left (south) of Fifi's Frozen Fingers follow the obvious discontinuous OW to a large boulder perched sixty feet above.

Protection 

A few screws, mid size cams, a set of nuts. A spectre may also be useful depending on conditions. Use trees as anchors.

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BETA PHOTO: Following on the FA, just above the overhanging se...

BETA PHOTO: Above the OW, under the final sketchy stemming.