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Sugarloaf, West Face
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Crack Face 
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Hyperspace 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The 
Only the Young Die Brave 
Pony Express 
TM's Deviation 
Twist and Shout 
Under the Spreading Atrophy 
West Chimney 

West Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Warren Harding and John Ohrenschall
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Josh Cameron on Jul 17, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: West Chimney, 5.8

Description 

A failed attempt to reach the South Summit. The first ascentionists executed a shoulder stand to bypass the dirty 5.8 section on the second pitch.

The start of the route is obvious. Head up the 5.5 chimney with a crack on the left side for pro. At the top of the chimney, climb spooky flaky rock to the left to surpass the chimney's roof.

A second dirty pitch continues to the top at 5.8 or you can climb "T.M.'s Deviation."


Location 

The next trad climb right of "Pony Express." Often used as an approach for "T.M.'s Deviation."


Protection 

Nuts and small to medium cams.



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