|Sugarloaf, West Face
A failed attempt to reach the South Summit. The first ascentionists executed a shoulder stand to bypass the dirty 5.8 section on the second pitch.
The start of the route is obvious. Head up the 5.5 chimney with a crack on the left side for pro. At the top of the chimney, climb spooky flaky rock to the left to surpass the chimney's roof.
A second dirty pitch continues to the top at 5.8 or you can climb "T.M.'s Deviation."
The next trad climb right of "Pony Express." Often used as an approach for "T.M.'s Deviation."
Nuts and small to medium cams.