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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Black T 
Crack Face T 
Cry Mary T 
Espresso S 
Fat Merchant Crack T 
Ghost in the Machine T 
Grand Delusion T 
Hanging by a Thread S 
Happy Face T,S 
Hyperspace T 
Macrel Sky T 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 
Northern Lights T 
Only the Young Die Brave T,S 
Pan Dulce T 
Podium, The T 
Pony Express T 
Slippy Liam S 
Sugar Daddy S 
TM's Deviation T 
Twist and Shout T,TR 
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 
West Chimney T 

West Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Warren Harding and John Ohrenschall
Page Views: 294
Submitted By: Josh Cameron on Jul 17, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: West Chimney, 5.8

Description 

A failed attempt to reach the South Summit. The first ascentionists executed a shoulder stand to bypass the dirty 5.8 section on the second pitch.

The start of the route is obvious. Head up the 5.5 chimney with a crack on the left side for pro. At the top of the chimney, climb spooky flaky rock to the left to surpass the chimney's roof.

A second dirty pitch continues to the top at 5.8 or you can climb "T.M.'s Deviation."


Location 

The next trad climb right of "Pony Express." Often used as an approach for "T.M.'s Deviation."


Protection 

Nuts and small to medium cams.



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