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Twin Owls
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Rather Fight Than Switch 
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TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct 
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West Chimney 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) 
Wolf's Tooth 
Unsorted Routes:

West Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
FA: ?
Page Views: 903
Submitted By: Jim McGuire on Jan 1, 2002
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P1 L start, 5.7.
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Description 

This is a nice route if you like chimney climbing, if not best to keep your distance.

This climb starts from the big ledge left of Wolfstooth but right of the big rotten cleft bisecting the face. There are three options for starting which converge below the obvious chimney. The hand crack on the left is the nicest(5.7), and the low angle, left angling chimney/crack in the center is the easiest. One can continue the first pitch on up into the chimney but to help communication a belay here may be advisable. Climb up the steep, classic "boot&butt" chimney past a chockstone to a deep, flat-bottomed cave. Belay in the cave or on a ledge above on some boulders. The last lead starts out in a right facing corner and exits early to the face on the right for the easiest passage.

Unlike the Bowels of the Owls, this chimney is quite strenuous and exposed.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of West Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
P2 below the crux chockstone.
P2 below the crux chockstone.
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 4, 2004

Beware of rope drag on your last piece below the chockstone on P2.