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West Buttress faces south and gets lots of sunshine. Many of the routes are completely bolted, some with supplementary trad pieces wanted here and there, and a few completely trad. There are basically 3 sections. Two buttresses on the right and left of the obvious Butt Groove, and another slabby face left of the western most buttress. Easy to set up top ropes on all the routes. Route difficulty range from 5.7 to 5.10. A great beginning leader crag as the routes are low angle, have good protection, and most of the difficulty lies down low. A fun, small area worth visiting!
West Buttress is directly west of the lowest point of Sugarloaf's South Face. A few minutes walk following a small trail leads over to the base of this lower angle face climbing slab.
8 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Buttress:
Middle Toe 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, TR, 45'
Knobelty 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
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