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Musembeah Peak
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West Buttress T 

West Buttress 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Layton Kor, 1963
Season: summer
Page Views: 3,366
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Jun 13, 2009

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Musembeah from Mt. Lander, showing West Buttress.

Description 

This is the best line in the central Winds, especially if parties keep to the crest of the upper arete. It's character is that of a mountaineering rock climb, with route finding issues, sometimes unpredictably wet patches, but still, generally enjoyable climbing on good rock. The final pitches provide withering exposure and wonderful movement up sustained cracks and chimneys. Ledges are timely and comfortable.
The first ascent climbed the shady rock left of the crest to finish, slightly easier but worthy rock. The shade is generally unappealing.
Start up the chimney/couloir mentioned in "Location", and trend left after a pitch, continuing up the lower half of the buttress (occasional 5.8) following cracks to the laid back central section.
Scramble to the base of the upper arete, then continue upwards, on or a little right of the crest to the the summit. 5.9-5.10, 4 or 5 pitches.



Location 

The west face is a complex wall above Baptiste Lake and is separated into two distinct buttresses separated at the bottom by a chimney/couloir. The West Buttress route ascends the left one.

Protection 

A standard rack with cams to 3" and runners should do the job.


Photos of West Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Upper ridge of W. Butt
Upper ridge of W. Butt
High on the west ridge of Musembeah, 1986
High on the west ridge of Musembeah, 1986
Musembeah from Baptiste Lake, showing the lower we...
Musembeah from Baptiste Lake, showing the lower we...
Eric Draper at the beginning of the upper arete.
Eric Draper at the beginning of the upper arete.

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