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West Buttress of the South Peak
Easy 5th YDS 1+ French 3 Ewbanks I UIAA 5 ZA M 1c British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Old Settler
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Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 12 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | G. Mumford, T. Ryan 1977 |
| Page Views: | 2,472 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Mar 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gates may be closed.
Details
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
Description
Begin at the buttress toe, just south of the prominent west couloir. Climb several pitches just right of and on the crest of the buttress to a broad terrace. Cross the terrace and climb just on and left of the buttress crest for several more sustained pitches. As the buttress becomes more ledgy near the top, zigzag around following the easiest line to the summit, the climbing gradually eases off to scrambling. Outstandingly solid, grippy orange rock with many cracks and solid holds. A great route to simulclimb or solo; pitching it all out will take many hours.
Location
From Daiphy Lake, hike up over talus in about an hour to the prominent buttress dropping from the right-hand summit.
On descent, trend southeast down ledges off the summit, skiiers' left side of the south ridge. As the ridge steepens, follow a ramp down to a short chimney that is a 4th class downclimb or can be rapped (25m) off fixed pins. At the base of the ridge, continue south over the first wooded bump before dropping west onto talus below the south face. Follow this talus back down to the lake.
On descent, trend southeast down ledges off the summit, skiiers' left side of the south ridge. As the ridge steepens, follow a ramp down to a short chimney that is a 4th class downclimb or can be rapped (25m) off fixed pins. At the base of the ridge, continue south over the first wooded bump before dropping west onto talus below the south face. Follow this talus back down to the lake.
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