West Buttress of the South Peak
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|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||Easy 5th [details]|
|FA: ||G. Mumford, T. Ryan 1977|
|Season: ||summer and fall|
|Submitted By: ||Dru on Mar 16, 2009|
Evening light on the South Peak from camp at Daiph...
Begin at the buttress toe, just south of the prominent west couloir. Climb several pitches just right of and on the crest of the buttress to a broad terrace. Cross the terrace and climb just on and left of the buttress crest for several more sustained pitches. As the buttress becomes more ledgy near the top, zigzag around following the easiest line to the summit, the climbing gradually eases off to scrambling. Outstandingly solid, grippy orange rock with many cracks and solid holds. A great route to simulclimb or solo; pitching it all out will take many hours.
From Daiphy Lake, hike up over talus in about an hour to the prominent buttress dropping from the right-hand summit.
On descent, trend southeast down ledges off the summit, skiiers' left side of the south ridge. As the ridge steepens, follow a ramp down to a short chimney that is a 4th class downclimb or can be rapped (25m) off fixed pins. At the base of the ridge, continue south over the first wooded bump before dropping west onto talus below the south face. Follow this talus back down to the lake.
Light rack biased towards mid size nuts and finger to hand-sized cams. No fixed gear or fixed pins en route but there is a fixed pin rap anchor at the crux of the descent.
|Photos of West Buttress of the South Peak Slideshow
Kurt Fickeisen soloing up the opening pitch of the...
A Ropeless Tamara Slade Exiting a Corner on the We...
|Comments on West Buttress of the South Peak
|By Darin Berdinka|
Aug 28, 2009
This climb is highly reminiscent of the South Ridge of Ingalls Peak in Washington State, except that it's at least four times as long! If it was located south of the border it would be an absolute mob scene every single weekend. Well worth climbing.