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West Bluff - Stettner Rocks

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Stettner Rocks 

West Bluff - Stettner Rocks 


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Stephen D. Schaefgen on Aug 8, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Stettner Rocks routes
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Description 

Great beginners area. Not to mention, a lot of fun for anybody. All routes are easily top rop, and offers a lot of trad as well for those learning, or looking for an easy day. Most of the leadable climbs are 5.2-5.5. Access to the top is made easy, as there are "walk offs" in all directions. Routes are approximately 25 feet to 30 feet in length, climbers get sun, and belay gets shade.


Getting There 

The guide book ("Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake by Swartling) states (P.186) "Starting from the cottage road, hike up the old West Bluff Trail 300 feet to a bench above the first minor rock band. On this level follow the path 100 feet northeast to base of Stettner Rocks."

I had a hard time finding the old West Bluff Trail due to the heavy foliage, or perhaps, I just missed it. I followed the cottage road to approximately 100 feet before the first cottage, made a left, and went straight up the slope from the road. Approximately 200 feet from the road up. Also, from the West Bluff Parking lot, looking north along the West Bluff, a small part of Stettner Rocks can be seen peaking through the trees.


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For West Bluff - Stettner Rocks
There are several routes in this area: the ledges on the west side and a face climb (no ledges) on the east side.  My ropes are in the middle by accident.  This route is possible, but save the trees please.

Unknown 5.2 3 8 II D 2c  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Stettner Rocks
This route is not listed in the guide book. However, knowingly is not a First Ascent, rather a "new" route. In terms of "new", meaning not listed as route info has been lost through time, or very hard to find.In the guide book, the route is to the right of route #6. In between #6 and #7.Just North of the Southern most mass of Stettner Rocks, there is a face divided into three by two large, four foot ledges. Route height is approximately 25-30 feet, with a ledge at six feet,...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of West Bluff - Stettner Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Stettner Rocks
BETA PHOTO: Stettner Rocks
Stettner Rocks
BETA PHOTO: Stettner Rocks
Comments on West Bluff - Stettner Rocks Add Comment
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By Brett Wiegman
Aug 9, 2002

This area is where I did my first Trad lead. It's a good learning area. Easily protectable, and the routes are fun, but not too dicey for your first lead.

By Joe Block
Aug 10, 2002

Notes on approach: The Old West Bluff Trail appears along Cottage Road about 100 feet after the junction with South Shore Road. It is the well traveled path that during high water is very marshy for the first ten feet. It passes next to a large boulder and then angles north towards Stettner's.Another approach is from the "New" West Bluff Trail, at one of the several climber's trails that appear after the stone steps.Another approach (from above) is from the first "overlook" along the "New" West Bluff Trail. This brings you above and slightly south of Stettner's. A gully provides access to the top of Stettner's on the south side of the formation.