Great beginners area. Not to mention, a lot of fun for anybody. All routes are easily top rop, and offers a lot of trad as well for those learning, or looking for an easy day. Most of the leadable climbs are 5.2-5.5. Access to the top is made easy, as there are "walk offs" in all directions. Routes are approximately 25 feet to 30 feet in length, climbers get sun, and belay gets shade.
The guide book ("Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake by Swartling) states (P.186) "Starting from the cottage road, hike up the old West Bluff Trail 300 feet to a bench above the first minor rock band. On this level follow the path 100 feet northeast to base of Stettner Rocks."
I had a hard time finding the old West Bluff Trail due to the heavy foliage, or perhaps, I just missed it. I followed the cottage road to approximately 100 feet before the first cottage, made a left, and went straight up the slope from the road. Approximately 200 feet from the road up. Also, from the West Bluff Parking lot, looking north along the West Bluff, a small part of Stettner Rocks can be seen peaking through the trees.
This route is not listed in the guide book. However, knowingly is not a First Ascent, rather a "new" route. In terms of "new", meaning not listed as route info has been lost through time, or very hard to find.In the guide book, the route is to the right of route #6. In between #6 and #7.Just North of the Southern most mass of Stettner Rocks, there is a face divided into three by two large, four foot ledges. Route height is approximately 25-30 feet, with a ledge at six feet,...[more]Browse More Classics in WI
Notes on approach: The Old West Bluff Trail appears along Cottage Road about 100 feet after the junction with South Shore Road. It is the well traveled path that during high water is very marshy for the first ten feet. It passes next to a large boulder and then angles north towards Stettner's.Another approach is from the "New" West Bluff Trail, at one of the several climber's trails that appear after the stone steps.Another approach (from above) is from the first "overlook" along the "New" West Bluff Trail. This brings you above and slightly south of Stettner's. A gully provides access to the top of Stettner's on the south side of the formation.