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West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater

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Blade, The 
Chair Bivy Buttress  
Cleo Amphitheater, The 
Cleopatra's Needle 
Turk's Head 
Whitney's Formation 
Wiessner Wall 

West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater  


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 7, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Clockwise in the highlighted area are the Cleo Amp...

Description 

The Cleo Amphitheater is probably the most frequently climbed area on the West Bluff. There are a good number of quality climbs found here and the access is relatively easy. The area sees morning sun and shade in the afternoon, so it's ideal for hot sunny days. The area is made up of the climbs on Cleopatra's Needle, the Amphitheater, the Wiessner Wall, and Turk's Head.

Getting There 

To get to the Cleo Amphitheater park at the gravel parking lot near the southwest end of the lake, across from the boat landing. The lot accomodates 20-30 cars. From the lot, cross the road and take the West Bluff Trail (paved) up the West Bluff. At the top of the bluff you will come to a lookout directly above the Amphitheater. The Wiessner Wall and Turk's Head are to your left (north), while Cleopatra's Needle is at about 11 o'clock if you're looking straight out off the bluff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

50 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',21],['5.7',7],['5.8',11],['5.9',5],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater:
Upper Wiessner Crack   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Wiessner Wall
Queen's Throne   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   The Cleo Amphitheater
Northwest Side   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   Cleopatra's Needle
Wiessner Chimney   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   Wiessner Wall
Southeast Arete   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Cleopatra's Needle
East Comfort Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Cleopatra's Needle
Throne Room   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR   The Cleo Amphitheater
King's Throne   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   The Cleo Amphitheater
Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Cleopatra's Needle
Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Cleopatra's Needle
Wiessner Face   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   Wiessner Wall
Turk's Head Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 7 pitches, 500'   Turk's Head
Stinger   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   Wiessner Wall
Queen's Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   The Cleo Amphitheater
A Point of Balance   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 40'   Turk's Head
Just Another Pretty Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Wiessner Wall
Between the Queens   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 70'   The Cleo Amphitheater
Zor the Mantle   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Turk's Head
The Green Slime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Turk's Head
Big Roof   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, 50'   The Cleo Amphitheater
Browse More Classics in West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater

Featured Route For West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater
Turk's Head Ridge

Turk's Head Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Turk's Head
An alpine route at Devil's Lake? Turks Head Ridge, with the Wiessner Wall finish is seven to nine pitches long. Sure the pitches are short, but its all we've got. To approach, walk north past the cabins on Tumbled Rocks Trail until you can see a tower about 50 yards above the trail. This is the first pitch (5.3). Descend the tower, and continue on long, mostly unbroken ridge to the base of Wiessner Wall. Continue up Wiessner in two pitches and complete the longest route in Wisconsin.Pitch tw...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater Slideshow Add Photo
Cleo's
BETA PHOTO: Cleo's
Cleo's zoomed in from the Monolith.
Cleo's zoomed in from the Monolith.

Comments on West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Apr 17, 2004
CONDITION REPORT 
Who monitors the top of Cleos needle to make sure that after the freeze/thaw and after multiple leads each week it will still stay secure for the rappel off the top ring?
By Tradoholic
Jul 7, 2009
The parking lot described in "Getting There" is now paved.