|Five Open Books
Begin up blocky rock to gain a clean, right-angling fingers/lieback ramp (.10a). Follow this ramp until a sequence of face moves up and left of the crack comes into view, near the top of the ramp. Move up through these crux face moves past a bolt (if it's there; rumor of it being chopped as of late '06/early '07?) and around a series of minor roofs. Either belay at pin with additional gear, or continue up easier terrain to the upper pitches of The Surprise (gear anchor).
Combining this pitch with the last two pitches of the Surprise makes for an excellent 3-pitch, 5.10 affair, and is sooo recommended.
Approach as for Commmitment, continue past the Surprise ~40 ft until you find the obvious ramp start to WAT.
Doubles to 2", single 3" if continuing up The Surpise.
|By Paul Hunnicutt|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 22, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
We didn't see any bolts and personally I found the pro where you move left a the expanding flake a bit sketchy, hence my R rating. Excellent Eldo-esque climbing. I agree, it seems a logical start to the Surprise and makes for an amazing 2-3 pitch climb.
Mar 11, 2008
Great fun. I spent too much time looking for a bolt that isn't there to begin the traverse. Look for a pod/jug. This is where you go left. Bring small nuts or cams to protect the crux traverse, though your gear will be more psychological than protective.
Also, chopped bolt at the optional first belay (70'). Only a piton and 1-4" cracks a plenty for gear. Better yet, continue another 70' for a better belay stance.
Great way to start Surprise!
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Climbed this in early Oct 09- bolt is not there. a #1 BD C3 gives some psychological protection on this crux traverse. Linked this pitch to Suprise for a stellar 4 star 2 pitch linkup (we had a 70m rope). Highly recommended.
From: San Francisco
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Not R, but kinda scary after moving out of the .10a lieback into the .10c section. Definitely no bolt, but there was a fixed nut, which my partner removed. There are other spots for small gear or nuts (I used a green c3) in a small pod to the climbers left (after moving out left from the lieback section).
Great pitch overall, great liebacking and fun face moves with good rests in between. A great first pitch variation to the surprise.
From: Oakland CA
Nov 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No bolt but the thing laces up with great small nuts, so bring plenty. Probably not .10c either.
|By Zachary W|
From: San Francisco, California
Jan 24, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Still no bolt as of 1/2014. Crux moves are spicy with thin pro in expanding flakes, but it definitely feels easier than 10c. Linking this into The Surprise makes for the best route at FOB!