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Beer Wall
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Werewolf 

Werewolf 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1987 Danny Caldwell and Mark Pell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Mark Pell on Jan 31, 2013
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Description 

Located 15-20' right of Fred Sandstone Flake. Scramble up the lower slab with a couple of interesting moves to a ledge stance below a small roof and short headwall. Arrange pro from small wires and cams then pull onto the vertical face where a sequence of thin edge and flake moves leads past more clean, small protection to easier but still steep ground and a mantle onto the wide flat ledge at the top. Notable is that this climb's onsight first ascent was done at midnight under the light of a full moon, with the quite drunken f.a. party wearing headlamps- hence the name Werewolf. We were camping just down the hill below Bubba City and it was a beautiful night, so we said, "Let's go climbing!"


Location 

Bubba City 'Beer Wall' area. Descend by rappel from any of the trees on top of the buttress.


Protection 

This route's recommended rack is strictly small and medium wires and cams, with doubles on the smaller end of the range.



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