Wendall's Dike  WI4 M3 R

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Type:  Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 140 feet Consensus:  WI4 M3 [details] FA:  First recorded ascent, Ryan Barber, Bradley White, 1/2013 Submitted By:  bradley white on Jan 11, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ryan Barber in the last crux.

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Description 

I believe this is an old route that didn't find its way into a guide book yet. So, that is why it is a recorded ascent.
Climb the rock wall at (M2-3 R) to the dirt ramp and belay at oak tree passed the large pine tree on the right (I should make the first pitch protection more reasonable by next winter).
Go up easy gully that is bolted. Mostly rock in thin condition to the bolted (M2) head wall left or stay in the gully to the chimney. Ascend the chimney of the dike (we had much trouble due to warm and thin conditions). It's a narrow chimney with cascading ice runnel. Tight inside chimney. I put much torque on the tool placements to get my feet higher. Crampon on rock out of the dike's chimney will likely always happen. Sections of ice came off at the base of the dike leaving bare rock on our ascent and dry pointing (M3) happened instead of ice. Fortunately the rock route 'White Rabbit' bolts protected this ice route because it was too warm for ice screws.
Its technical and provocative with its especially deep chimney crux.

Location 

The wall on the right of the trail is at the same height as the summer rock route the 'Wrong Crack'. This hand crack is on the adjacent wall with a gully between these walls. Wendall's start is closest to the trail at the large cornered, easiest looking way up the ledge. Rappelling is good or there is a walk off east to the Jimmy Cliff trail.

Protection 

First pitch has only one trusted army surplus pin. Eight bolts available and four at the dike crux on second pitch.

Photos of Wendall's Dike Slideshow

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Ryan Barber at the pin on the rock start.	The dike and head wall ice route right.	Ryan
Ryan has entered the narrows.	Ryan at the no hands spot.	Ryan, near the end of the dike.
The exit to belay trees	BETA PHOTO: Winter Wonderland Fun (Wendall's Dike)