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Welsh winter climbing

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Clogwyn y Garnedd (the Trinity face) 
Craig y Rhaeadr 
Cwm Idwal 
Ysgolion Duon (The Black Ladders) 

Welsh winter climbing 


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Location: 52.4694, -3.6145 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Jan 29, 2013
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A view of sunrise over Snowdon on a winter's morni...

Description 

Although not as reliable as the Scottish highlands, Wales offers a good variety of ice and mixed climbing, including the much coveted "Devil's Appendix" (VI, 6), perhaps the best pure ice route in the UK! Good conditions can be had for at least a couple of weeks in a typical year, a lot of routes are quick to come in, but also quick to go out again, so be quick.

Most of the climbing is found in the more mountainous regions of Snowdonia (in the North) and the Brecon Beacons (in the South).


Getting There 

Snowdonia is accessed from the Midlands by the A5 and from the North via Chester and the A55 coast road. the Brecon Beacons are more accessible from the South of England by the M4.


Guidebooks/Maps 

The two main guidebooks for winter climbing in Snowdonia are Welsh Winter Climbs by Cicerone (2009) and North Wales Winter Climbing by Ground Up (2010). Both have very good coverage, though neither is completely comprehensive.

Since a lot of the routes are in fairly remote and mountainous regions, it is recommended that all climbers carry a map and compass (and know how to use them!). The Ordnance Survey maps are very clear and readily available, and are the preferred choice for most UK climbers/hillwalkers. The 1:25000 Outdoor Leisure OL17 and OL18 are the relevant sheets for Snowdonia.


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Welsh winter climbing
Looking up the gully section of Central Trinity from just above the Spider. <br /> <br />Photo by Dave - <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/chdslDave' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.youtube.com/user/chdslDave</a>

Central Trinity Mod. Snow  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Clogwyn y Garnedd (the Trin...
The classic low-grade Welsh winter climb. This is the widest central gully from the Spider to the summit of Snowdon. It is usually tackled in 3 pitches:P1) up to the spider, 120m. There are two ways up, either left or right around a rocky buttress. Normally climbed solo or moving together alpine styleP2) Follow the gully that is the top left arm of spider for a pitch, passing a few steeper icy steps. Protection is found on the rocky right wall of the gullyP3) As the angle eases and the gully ope...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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