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Although not as reliable as the Scottish highlands, Wales offers a good variety of ice and mixed climbing, including the much coveted "Devil's Appendix" (VI, 6), perhaps the best pure ice route in the UK! Good conditions can be had for at least a couple of weeks in a typical year, a lot of routes are quick to come in, but also quick to go out again, so be quick.
Snowdonia is accessed from the Midlands by the A5 and from the North via Chester and the A55 coast road. the Brecon Beacons are more accessible from the South of England by the M4.
The two main guidebooks for winter climbing in Snowdonia are Welsh Winter Climbs by Cicerone (2009) and North Wales Winter Climbing by Ground Up (2010). Both have very good coverage, though neither is completely comprehensive.
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Featured Route For Welsh winter climbing
Central Trinity Mod. Snow Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Clogwyn y Garnedd (the Trin...
The classic low-grade Welsh winter climb. This is the widest central gully from the Spider to the summit of Snowdon. It is usually tackled in 3 pitches:P1) up to the spider, 120m. There are two ways up, either left or right around a rocky buttress. Normally climbed solo or moving together alpine styleP2) Follow the gully that is the top left arm of spider for a pitch, passing a few steeper icy steps. Protection is found on the rocky right wall of the gullyP3) As the angle eases and the gully ope...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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