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Well protected Twall 10's
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By johnthethird
Dec 27, 2012

Im headed down to Twall in the new year, and would like to break into 5.10. On the lower end of the spectrum, of course. Anyone have some well protected recommendations?

Thanks!


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By Paige Marta
Dec 27, 2012

Crackattack is fun. A little bit of everything. The crux is higher up and you can get good gear below.


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Dec 27, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

It's T-wall...crack climbing...aren't they pretty much all well protected?


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By RockyMtnTed
Dec 27, 2012

csproul wrote:
It's T-wall...crack climbing...aren't they pretty much all well protected?


Nope. Guidebook is full of spicy and "ambulance" routes. If you can't give a good answer why bother posting?


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Dec 27, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

RockyMtnTed wrote:
Nope. Guidebook is full of spicy and "ambulance" routes. If you can't give a good answer why bother posting?

Well Ted...I was being kind of serious. I don't know T-wall real well, but I've climbed a bunch of the low-mid 10's there and I don't remember any of them being particularly scary. Most all that I remember (Cake Walk, Crack-attack, Finger Lockin Good, Infinite Pursuit, Digital Mabre, Hidden Assets...) were continuous crack systems that protected at will. Maybe you have better contributions?


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Dec 27, 2012
modern man

I agree csproul, besides all you have to do is use 2 eyes and look at the damn thing.

Twall is awesome!


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Dec 27, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

for well protected stick to the crack routes...for spice go to the arete/face routes...pretty much how it breaks down at T-Wall. Have fun...and make sure to venture past Golden Locks

T


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By Jeff Mekolites
From HOTlanta, GA
Dec 27, 2012
East Buttress Direct, SEWS, WA Pass.

Here is your list...should keep you busy for a weekend...or two...

T Wall East

G Gear
Cake Walk
March Hare
Hidden Assets
Corner Pockets
Crack Attack
Precious Orr
Peoples Express
Days Work
Digital Macabre
Golden Gloves
Centerfold
Love Handle
Finger Lockin Good

PG Gear
Stepping Stone
Fill in the Blanks
Standard Deviation
Line Drive (aka Twitterville?)
Super Slide
The Sweep

T Wall West

G Gear
Open Casket (5.9)
Where Lizards Go to Die
Hammertime
Run with the Horsemen
Greener Pastures
Turn of the Page
Killer Diller/Silver Spurs
Heat Vision

PG Gear
Wiliam Perry
Wood Spirit

Plus there are a ton of 5.9/5.9+'s that you should add to this list.

If you are confident placing gear most/all of these will be plenty safe. Even the PG ones can be made safe (most of the time) with very small cams/nuts.


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By ChillFancy
From Chattanooga, TN
Dec 27, 2012
Chilling on a hammock anchored with nuts made from tied rope.

Wow Jess put up a great list. There are a handful of climbs (even of lower grades) with sloper unprotectable tops that always sketch me out. Exposed Aggregate 5.8 for example is easy climbing with a cruxy slope finish.


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By Br'er Rabbit
From The Deeper South
Dec 28, 2012
'Bred en bawn in a brier-patch, Brer Fox--bred en bawn in a brier-patch!'

Jeff knows.
The only "spice" I have EVER encountered at the TWall is on faces or aretes....Margin of Profit, Stepping Stone, etc.
The topouts just sort of come with the territory.
Everything else sews up....bring a full aresenal.


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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Dec 30, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.

T-Wall is a spanking the first day you head there after climbing elsewhere most the year. But as for 5.8's that are sketchy in a realistically dangerous sense? Bah. A big fall at T Wall doesn't mean sketchiness, gear is the bomb shit on 99% of the routes, so, like DEVO, whip

If it's 5.10 and down, there's someone on it when you get there, and the route isn't covered with dirt/lichen, then not being a total dumbass will leave you scratch free on any of your chosen route's falls.


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