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Well protected Twall 10's
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Dec 27, 2012
Im headed down to Twall in the new year, and would like to break into 5.10. On the lower end of the spectrum, of course. Anyone have some well protected recommendations?

Thanks!
johnthethird
Joined Jan 6, 2012
13 points
Dec 27, 2012
Crackattack is fun. A little bit of everything. The crux is higher up and you can get good gear below. Paige Marta
Joined Apr 10, 2010
5 points
Dec 27, 2012
Cold day at Smug's
It's T-wall...crack climbing...aren't they pretty much all well protected? csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
214 points
Dec 27, 2012
csproul wrote:
It's T-wall...crack climbing...aren't they pretty much all well protected?


Nope. Guidebook is full of spicy and "ambulance" routes. If you can't give a good answer why bother posting?
RockyMtnTed
Joined Jul 24, 2012
7 points
Dec 27, 2012
Cold day at Smug's
RockyMtnTed wrote:
Nope. Guidebook is full of spicy and "ambulance" routes. If you can't give a good answer why bother posting?

Well Ted...I was being kind of serious. I don't know T-wall real well, but I've climbed a bunch of the low-mid 10's there and I don't remember any of them being particularly scary. Most all that I remember (Cake Walk, Crack-attack, Finger Lockin Good, Infinite Pursuit, Digital Mabre, Hidden Assets...) were continuous crack systems that protected at will. Maybe you have better contributions?
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
214 points
Dec 27, 2012
the man was smart
I agree csproul, besides all you have to do is use 2 eyes and look at the damn thing.

Twall is awesome!
T Roper
From VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,055 points
Dec 27, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
for well protected stick to the crack routes...for spice go to the arete/face routes...pretty much how it breaks down at T-Wall. Have fun...and make sure to venture past Golden Locks

T
rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
253 points
Dec 27, 2012
East Buttress Direct, SEWS, WA Pass.
Here is your list...should keep you busy for a weekend...or two...

T Wall East

G Gear
Cake Walk
March Hare
Hidden Assets
Corner Pockets
Crack Attack
Precious Orr
Peoples Express
Days Work
Digital Macabre
Golden Gloves
Centerfold
Love Handle
Finger Lockin Good

PG Gear
Stepping Stone
Fill in the Blanks
Standard Deviation
Line Drive (aka Twitterville?)
Super Slide
The Sweep

T Wall West

G Gear
Open Casket (5.9)
Where Lizards Go to Die
Hammertime
Run with the Horsemen
Greener Pastures
Turn of the Page
Killer Diller/Silver Spurs
Heat Vision

PG Gear
Wiliam Perry
Wood Spirit

Plus there are a ton of 5.9/5.9+'s that you should add to this list.

If you are confident placing gear most/all of these will be plenty safe. Even the PG ones can be made safe (most of the time) with very small cams/nuts.
Jeff Mekolites
From HOTlanta, GA
Joined Jan 4, 2007
4,654 points
Dec 27, 2012
Chilling on a hammock anchored with nuts made from...
Wow Jess put up a great list. There are a handful of climbs (even of lower grades) with sloper unprotectable tops that always sketch me out. Exposed Aggregate 5.8 for example is easy climbing with a cruxy slope finish. ChillFancy
From Chattanooga, TN
Joined Feb 7, 2012
387 points
Dec 28, 2012
Stray dog found in rural Alabama w severe mange. T...
Jeff knows.
The only "spice" I have EVER encountered at the TWall is on faces or aretes....Margin of Profit, Stepping Stone, etc.
The topouts just sort of come with the territory.
Everything else sews up....bring a full aresenal.
BHMBen
From The Briar Patch
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,664 points
Dec 30, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
T-Wall is a spanking the first day you head there after climbing elsewhere most the year. But as for 5.8's that are sketchy in a realistically dangerous sense? Bah. A big fall at T Wall doesn't mean sketchiness, gear is the bomb shit on 99% of the routes, so, like DEVO, whip

If it's 5.10 and down, there's someone on it when you get there, and the route isn't covered with dirt/lichen, then not being a total dumbass will leave you scratch free on any of your chosen route's falls.
willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Joined Jul 20, 2010
42 points


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