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Welcome to Watauga 

Welcome to Watauga 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Shannon Stegg
Page Views: 1,624
Submitted By: Jacob Neathawk on Nov 20, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: First pitch crux
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is the last popular route on the main tier (heading uphill) before reaching Harpoon.

P1: 5.10 b/c. Start underneath a flake that often seeps and is capped by some steep terrain and then large roof. Climb some easy ground up to a stance underneath the large flake. Clip a fixed stopper and start railing out the horizontal on top of the flake. Mantel up onto the face and climb some steep jugs to the fixed anchor at about 70 feet.

P2: Either set up a hanging belay from the fixed anchors or instead of breaking the climb up, clip a four-foot sling to one of the anchors and start heading left on crimps to the left end of the roof. Place some gear, mantel onto the face then climb the splitter 5.8 or so crack to the top of the cliff.


A bunch of small stuff, nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot. A couple of hints: A yellow Alien to protect the first pitch traverse crux and a purple TCU to protect the crimpy section heading out of the belay after pitch one.

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By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Nov 11, 2010

Although both pitches are good, I think the rating keeps folks off of P1. Do it! It's great!

By s f
From: GA/CO
Nov 15, 2010

FFA: Shannon Stegg/A GA boy "stole" this one from the locals on a trip to visit his buddy, Jim Okel, at school in Boone.

By Rick Carpenter
From: Banner Elk, NC
Apr 3, 2014

The amount of gear stuck on this route is absurd, almost a sport climb if one trusted the pieces.