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This is a very good quality route that would benefit from more traffic. Although the rock is clean, there are many small friable edges that still exist. Use caution when stepping on them. To start, either stick clip the high first bolt or just climb up on crimps and place a piece in a horizontal below the first bolt. After the first bolt, arch a bit to the left and then slowly head back right passing bolts 2 and 3. The technical crux is in the lower portion of the route. After the 3rd bolt, head straight up through the overhanging face. It's pumpy up there if you don't find the right holds quickly.
As you walk left along the Moon Wall, continue about 200 yards beyond the 2nd waterfall. You will come to an orange face with a bunch of boulders at the base of the cliff. This route starts from the boulders, just to the left of a tree.
3 bolts, shuts. A light rack. Mostly smaller cams and nuts. Cams to up to a #1 Camalot.
By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Sep 7, 2010
First bolt is very rusty, but all of the hard climbing above it is protected by good gear. Plus the second and third bolts still look good, and the anchors were recently replaced.