Welcome to the Machine
|Consensus: ||WI4-5 [details]|
|FA: ||John Imbrie + Karen Messer, jan 1978|
|Page Views: ||1,121|
|Submitted By: ||lee hansche on Feb 18, 2009|
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This route doesn't always come in but when it does it is great fun... While normally it climbs at grade 5 it has come in super fat and happy and was more like grade 4... Regardless of the difficulty check it out sometime...
Right of drop line is the even more elusive Last Exit to the right of that you will fine "The Machine" When i climbed it we used a 70m rope and did it in one pitch I'm not sure if a 60m will get you all the way (i think it would though) but there is a spot to stop half way if you need to break it up...
The start can be thin and require some tricky climbing well in to the no fall zone before you get gear in so either bring your cool head or wait for a fat year... climb the thin bit heading for the steeps above... There is a stance at the base of the headwall where you can shake off throw in a good screw and get ready to fire the pumpy finish... Climb a series of steep pillars and curtains to a stance then a couple more small bulges to the trees above...
To the right of Dropline (5) and Last Exit (5)...
screws and slings maybe a few pieces of rock gear if things are thin down low...