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End Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be All, End All T 
Cap'm Pissgums T 
Days of Future Passed T 
Endgame T 
Jimmywacky T,S 
Magnus Veritas T,S 
Poetry in Motion T 
Son of Gums T 
Uncarved Block T 
Unknown (L of Endgame) S 
Welcome to the Machine T,S 

Welcome to the Machine 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, 1995
Page Views: 4,632
Submitted By: ttriche on Dec 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Corey Ellison trending left on the amazing first p...

Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>


This route starts in the deep cleft just to the right of the slab where Endgame begins, following a line of bolts up a rounded arete festooned with chickenheads and some blank slabby bits.

The first two pitches (can be linked with a 70m and possibly with a 60m rope as well) go straight up the blunt, bolted arete punctuated by two-bolt belays with colossal Metolius rap hangers at each. Endgame meets WTTM in an alcove of sorts at the second belay and then veers right; a suggested linkup is Endgame to WTTM, or WTTM to Endgame, rejoining on the ledge where all south face End Pinnacle routes seem to converge. The 5.10c/d cruxes on pitch 3 are supposedly more like 5.10a/b if a person faces out and right, and in any event are tightly bolted; a fall would be inconsequential. WTTM to Endgame is 5.10a, Endgame to WTTM is 5.10c/d, both are sport bolted at the cruxes.

After pitch 3, mid-sized cams are needed if a person wishes to shorten the runouts as the angle begins to ease off. WTTM crosses the bulging belly of the pinnacle higher up above where Endgame shoots off to the right, but rejoins the latter route on the big ledge where everything seems to converge. Take your pick of the final pitch to the top.


Between Endgame and Great Gig in the Sky / Days of Future Passed, this route follows the rounded, featured arete just to the left of the deep recess behind the house-sized boulder that marks the initial bolted traverse of Endgame's 1st pitch. Go straight up.


Many draws, slings, small to medium cams for p4

Photos of Welcome to the Machine Slideshow Add Photo
Sweet variation dudes!
Sweet variation dudes!
Begining the crux 3rd pitch, it is closely bolted,...
Begining the crux 3rd pitch, it is closely bolted,...
Just before the business on the first pitch.
Just before the business on the first pitch.
View of the first pitch
View of the first pitch
After the 4th pitch, move the belay to the right a...
After the 4th pitch, move the belay to the right a...
Wyatt following the 2nd pitch, almost in the sun!
Wyatt following the 2nd pitch, almost in the sun!

Comments on Welcome to the Machine Add Comment
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 30, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A topo for this route is available for clicking this link:


Note that this climb is on two faces, the W face and SW face. You will need the topo for the SW face of end pinnacle for the final pitch to the summit.
By Justin York
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The description (and look) of WTTM p1 didn't compare to endgame p1, so we did the following linkup that I HIGHLY recommend: Endgame pitches 1 and 2 (WTTM p2 is mostly same of endgame p2 anyway), WTTM pitches 3 and 4, finish on engame p5. Thoroughly enjoyed pitch 3! Neat, thought-provoking moves. Used only one piece (#3 cam) on p4, so don't overdo the rack you may bring up. IMHO, p4 was 5.9ish.

I would give the link-up 4 stars!

Saw a new finish for p5 above the big ledge. Would be a pretty direct finish to WTTM. If it wasn't late in the day we probably would have tried it. It was a bolted pitch probably about 40 feet rock left of the anchors for days of future passed. Any idea of the rating on this?
By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
Feb 27, 2011

Agreed, Endgame pitch 1 into WTTM, finishing on Endgame's 5th is a 4 star route!
I noticed the newer rap set-up off the summit down the front and would not recomend it in windy conditions. It's just too simple to go down the traditional rappels through the chimney and out the window.
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