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Cactus Rose Cliff
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Welcome To The Machine S,TR 
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Welcome To The Machine 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth.
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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April TR'ing "Welcome to the Machine".

Description 

The climbing to the first bolt could be a little spicy for some, but the holds are decent. The climbing gets pretty fun at the 3rd and 4th bolts which are quite close to each other, there is a rib sidepull which is for sure the crux, but you will find better holds just above.

This route is again a continuous one, like many others on this crag. It is a good intermediate route with fairly good protection.

Location 

This route is located on the left end of the 'Cactus Rose Crag' This line is the furthest left route.

Protection 

5 bolts - 2 bolt/sling anchor.


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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 13, 2003

[Van Horn's] guides and [Green's] guide give it 11c/d and 11d. climbed it last night and it is definitely closer to these grades. not sure if [Knapp] might have accidently typo-ed in his guide. good route though, probably be 12b at [Cactus].
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Certainly not 10d. That must be a typo. It felt all of 11d to me. Continuously difficult ending in a tough set of moves.
By Jean Spencer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 29, 2013

I agree. Harder than 10d. Got off of it and was like "wow, some 10s are just crazy hard!"
By Darryl Roth
Jan 27, 2014

As I recall, this was the first route at Shelf drilled with a Bosch roto-hammer (by Richard Aschert), thus the name.