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5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.1 from 16 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Sam Boyce & Joe Manning (2015) |
Page Views: | 3,743 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Sep 13, 2015 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Description
A slightly wandering trad route on mostly good rock and good gear on a separate buttress that lies to the far right of the gun club.
P1 5.9 65’ Start on the lower left of the lower wall with a few chimney moves, move out right and follow the scrub line. Pull onto the big ledge and belay at the two-bolt anchor. Super solid rock, good gear, and fun climbing.
P2 5.9 40’ Those not thrilled on adventure can downclimb a bit of 4th class to the right. This is where the route got its name. Start by monkeying under the dead tree and pull the roof by standing on the stump, then continue up the dirty chimney (climbs cleaner than it is) to the final ramp. Good gear belay. It is best to link with the next pitch to the top of the wall.
P3 5.7 40’ Get a couple pieces in and gingerly dance around the big scary block, easier climbing to the top out (loose). Walk either all the way to the trees at headlight point or build a gear anchor about halfway up (there's a solid anchor about 100 ft back from the top out and toward climbers right).
P4/5 5.7-9 You can extend your adventure by scrambling up to headlight point and climbing one of the various 1-2 pitch options that go all the way to the Dirty Harry summit.
Descent: It is best to carry everything up and hike up to the base of headlight point. It is possible to scramble down the gully to the climbers right of the wall, this is steep and brushy. I would not be opposed if someone added a bolted anchor to the summit of the buttress, which could facilitate a quick rappel back to he base.
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