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e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
Routes Sorted
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Birdie Party T 
Co-op T 
Coexistence T 
Credibility Gap T 
Dangler, The T 
Dry Martini T 
Fall to Grace T 
Fly Again T 
Graveyard Shift T 
Higher Stannard T 
Interstice T 
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 
Land Ho! T 
Land's End (Direct) T 
Laughing Man T 
Men At Arms T 
Mother's Day Party T 
Overhanging Layback T 
Scene of the Climb T 
Something Boring T 
Something Interesting T 
Star Action T 
Still Crazy After All These Years T 
Tequila Mockingbird T 
Three Pines T 
Tough Shift T 
Try Again T 
Welcome to the Gunks T 

Welcome to the Gunks 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Andy Cairns & Jim Kolocotronis - 1973
Page Views: 7,948
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Becky Diamond on the first roof.

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


Welcome to the Gunks is a nice little single-pitch climb that passes through multiple roofs!

Begin below tiered roofs at the center of a low roof with two crack/flake systems which is right of Tequila Mockingbird and Dry Martini. The access trail for Welcome to the Gunks is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

The first bit is difficult and scary - unprotected moves on slopers will get you to some decent gear. Above this there is another runout through the second roof, but fortunately the rest of the climb is well-protected.

You will strongly prefer two ropes for the descent.


Standard Rack.

Photos of Welcome to the Gunks Slideshow Add Photo
Becky below the second roof.
Becky below the second roof.
The tiered roofs of Welcome - Tricia is above the ...
The tiered roofs of Welcome - Tricia is above the ...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 24, 2014
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 7, 2006

This used to be rated 5.9. We thought it had five 5.9 cruxes: the slab, the first roof, the scary moves to the second roof, the second roof itself (the actual crux), and the roof on P2.

The slab approach was always scary for me, and the second roof never felt easy. If you do P2, you have a bunch of junky climbing above the P2 crux as you wander up and eventually a bit right to a tree that you can belay and rap from.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2009

I thought this was the hardest 5.10 that I have ever followed at the Gunks. Perhaps it was late in the day (our last climb), but I rarely fall on a Gunks 10. I fell three times on this climb. The slab was difficult (hard to reach the big holds for this short climber), the roofs were easy relative to the R section on the orange rock. I took a fall trying to move from the slopers to the horizontal under the roof. All in all, a hard climb, I thought much harder than Feast of Fools, Interstice, Mothers Day party, Retribution, Nose dive etc. I am not sure I would repeat this any time soon.
By SethG
Nov 30, 2010

As I figure it the cruxes are:

1. The face before roof # 1;
2. Roof # 1;
3. The face before roof # 2;
4. Roof # 2; and
5. Roof # 3.

Roof #4 is much easier than the others and then it is easy climbing up and right to the belay tree. I did this on toprope and my hat is off to anyone who can calmly lead it! (Please don't think I am suggesting I sent the thing-- I fell several times at roof number 2 and then again at roof #3.) The route is difficult, varied, and it just keeps presenting new challenges, although there are good rests as well. I am amazed anyone ever called this a 5.9!
Dec 5, 2010

My SO Scott led this as the highlight of his season, and with Seth's and his help, I've fixed it up.

He specifically wanted to point out the scary 5.9R below the second roof (though you get good gear for the roof itself). Cheers, JSH
By SethG
Dec 5, 2010

Thanks, Julie. Looks good now!
By chris_vultaggio
Oct 5, 2011

One of the best 10s in the gunks - tricky start and spicy moves before the crux keep the blood going.
By Denis O'Connor
Nov 14, 2011

A block has broken off at the top of the initial slab section for the right hand start variation, which is also the start of Laughing Man. The variation is still possible, but it is more difficult than before, and it is especially more difficult if you don't realize the block is gone until you are in the middle of the sequence.

This does not affect the left start, which is pretty much directly underneath the first roof.
By paulmadry
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I wish I read Dennis's report above about the fallen hold. The initial slab on the right was ouch, especially if you don't put any pro. I did the route a few years ago and it seemed more enjoyable, maybe because of the hold was there - I never remember any beta details, but maybe I got fatter.
My question is: where is the R section above the first roof? I'd say initial slab may be R but not after. Also, after the crux roof #2 should I go up/right or up/left?
By Ross Exler
From: New York
Jun 14, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I got down from the tree with a single 70m. At 9.5mm, it stretched enough to get me down with a foot or two to spare. There's an intermediate station if you have a shorter rope. Look to your right on the way down - it's obvious on rap, but I didn't see it from the base or while climbing.
By rogerbenton
Jul 21, 2014

Wow. This thing is brutal.
Be very concious of rope drag, the last two roofs are probably much more fun without it.
By Pawel
From: NJ
Nov 24, 2014

Wow what a climb!!

The comments about the left and right variation starts had me confused (the two options are not described in the route description). I would say go for the left variation which has solid holds and is relatively easy (5.8?).

I didn't think the "scary" face above roof #1 was poorly protected. You have to make a thin move above gear, but the gear is solid. On the other hand I had trouble finding good gear at Roof #2 and ended up backing off. The gear is solid, but it's easier once you find the right spot and the right piece. Also, there's a fixed rusty old cam underneath that roof to help as you figure out the gear you'll actually be falling on at the crux ;)

Roof #4 may be easier than the other three but with the pump and mental drain it's still pretty challenging.
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