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Poison Oak Boulder Area
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Left of the Tree 
Monkey Crack T,TR 
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Welcome to Rubidoux TR 
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Welcome to Rubidoux 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Darrell Hensel, 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,346
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Mar 6, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Technical crimping/edging on superb, bullet hard rock, followed by a brilliant 90 degree arete.

The bottomless left arete is the obvious objective, and therein lies the problem, getting to the arete. Start a couple feet left of Slap You Silly. A hard pull on sharp crimps gives access to a left traverse across the face on patina edges. From the large foot edge at the end of the traverse move up, then left to the obvious stance at the base of the arete. From here one can finally do the stellar arete.

Long problem with sustained moves, feels more like a route than a bouldering problem. The real problem isn't so much individual move difficulty as much as linking everything together. The sharp holds have a tendancy to chew one up after a few tries.

The arete is superb. To just do it by itself (maybe 12a), it's well worth pulling up past the edging to the stance at the base of it and going from there.

You kind of had to have been involved in the Woodson/Rubidoux skirmishes during the late 70's - early 90's to understand the name.

Location 

On the main face of the IMAX boulder.

Protection 

Two bolt anchor at the top of the arete.


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By johannsolo
From: So Cal
Feb 15, 2013

Arguably the best route at Woodson. A masterpiece!
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Sep 8, 2013

Yeah, those of us who frequented Mt. Woodson and Mt. Rubidoux BITD get the significance of the name. Thanks for another great "dime edge" masterpiece, Darrell.