Welcome to ol' Kentuck 5.13a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Steve Petro |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Nov 1, 2008 |
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Me working the nemesis. First of three in the WTM...
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Description This is the super obvious overhanging finger crack just right of Brontosaurus. Climb up the easy gully on the left then hit the crack. A couple flared handjams lead to good fingers lead to bad fingers lead to good fingers again. All at a very steep angle.
Protection A hand size piece at the start, a 1 camalot, and two .4's. For me anyway. I used a lot more while sussing it out but pared down once I thought I had a chance.
Placing the last piece of gear, a .4 camalot, from...
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| Comments on Welcome to ol' Kentuck |
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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 4, 2009
| I believe the original name for this was "The Nazi Bitch Crack." Or something to that effect. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2009
| That is true- it was renamed when it got freed. NBC was the name of the "aid" ascent. |
By camhead
From: The Old Northwest
Nov 21, 2011
| Just a note, my gear list, once I was done hangdogging it:
equalized 3 & 4 camalot for an anchor off the ledge, then a .75 camalot, then two .4 camalots. This sets you up for a significant fall if you blow the final moves, but there really aren't that many other good spots to place gear from. |
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