This is the super obvious overhanging finger crack just right of Brontosaurus. Climb up the easy gully on the left then hit the crack. A couple flared handjams lead to good fingers lead to bad fingers lead to good fingers again. All at a very steep angle.
A hand size piece at the start, a 1 camalot, and two .4's. For me anyway. I used a lot more while sussing it out but pared down once I thought I had a chance.
Placing the last piece of gear, a .4 camalot, from...
From: Concord, MA
Apr 4, 2009
I believe the original name for this was "The Nazi Bitch Crack." Or something to that effect.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2009
That is true- it was renamed when it got freed. NBC was the name of the "aid" ascent.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 21, 2011
Just a note, my gear list, once I was done hangdogging it:
equalized 3 & 4 camalot for an anchor off the ledge, then a .75 camalot, then two .4 camalots. This sets you up for a significant fall if you blow the final moves, but there really aren't that many other good spots to place gear from.