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An excellent route ascending a natural line up the tallest and steepest part of the face. The climb requires a variety of techniques including liebacking, friction and several sizes of cracks.
One of the few all trad routes on Little Baldy. The only bolts are the anchor at the top of the first pitch. It's a very good route that will only get better with time and little more traffic. It may be 5.9 if the crux corner gets a little more clean.
Please climb this route!
P1: Ascend the left leaning corner/crack system until you see two anchor bolts off to the left.
P2: Continue up the same system, through the crux corner, until a small roof. Skirt around the small roof to the right and walk up and left to belay at the base of the arching crack (5.10a).
P3: Follow the fun, clean arching crack up. As it turns left it gets wider but can be climbed without many off-width moves (Unless you didn't bring big gear and have to try to place gear in the back of the crack as you squirm up and get your knee stuck!). Belay where the arching crack ends.
P4: Climb up the small left facing dihedral through the big ear/flake thing. A big piece comes in handy here. Friction off the belay is the hardest part of this pitch. Belay once you get to 4th class at a large right facing roof/corner.
Walk to the top and high five!
The start is left of a giant dirty looking left facing corner near where you hit the rock on the approach from the road (see photos)
Doubles from small to 2" with one #3, two big pieces and a set of nuts. Two #5s would probably be best, but a #4 and #5 or #5 and #6 would work.
BETA PHOTO: There's the start, climb up the middle of the pict...
The third pitch crack in the top center, nice!
From: Visalia, CA
Apr 21, 2013
I gave this four stars for it's potential after a bit of traffic
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
May 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
3.5 stars only because of the little traffic this gets and the amount of moss on it. It would easily be 4 star classic if all those bushes and moss weren't in the way.
Partner and I did this is 3 pitches. I lead pitch one, he did 2 and then link 3/4 together with a 70m rope.
I did a variation when I followed pitch 2 into the giant ledge above. At the small roof, he followed the description and went out right through some slab climbing. I followed and went left because his piece after the slab fell out and I didnt want to take a giant swing if I fell. Going out left was a pretty cool varation and climbs over a small roof on jugs. Maybe a v1/v2 boulder move that can be easily protected if done on lead. Great climb over all. We had a #4 and #5 C4 and a tricam equal to #6 c4. He placed each one but couldve placed smaller stuff further back in the crack.