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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Comic Book Area
> Mary Worth Buttress
Welcome to Joshua Tree
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 6
votes
Routes in Mary Worth Buttress
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Apple Mary TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bottle in Front of Me T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cerebral Dysfunction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Distant Episode T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grain Alcohol TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Now Go Home TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ooby Dooby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Welcome to Joshua Tree T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Herb Laeger, Dave Houser and Jan McCollum, February 1977 |
| Page Views: | 5,478 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 10, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
One of the better routes in the entire Comic Book area with it's variety of moves, excellent positioning and just enough spice to make it memorable.
P1) Start 15 feet left of a huge left-facing corner and climb to a high first bolt. Above, sporty face moves past three more bolts lead up and right then back left to a 3 bolt anchor on a nice ledge. A 1 inch piece can be placed under a flake on this pitch too, so keep your eyes open.
P2) Climb off the belay past a bolt then up face past several horizontals and some exciting moves to the top and another bolted anchor.
- Descend the route in two (2) raps with a single 60 meter rope or longer; don't try this with anything less than a single 60 meter as the distance from the first anchor to the ground is about 100 feet.
Location
Looking at the Mary Worth Buttress from the trail you will see a smooth dome low down where the Bottle in Front of Me climb is located.
Uphill from that the formation rises taller, and forms an impressive face, which is where this route is found.
Uphill from that the formation rises taller, and forms an impressive face, which is where this route is found.
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