This is the next route right from Fire Widow. Begin climbing from the ledge, and pull a bouldery move past the first bolts (5.9). continue up the slab with a thin seam to the headwall. Climb past two 5.10 sections on the headwall, and belay at the anchors.
Rappel with two ropes, or swing to the right 85' to reach the anchors on Alloy Madness.
|Comments on Welcome to Dystopia
|By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett|
Jul 23, 2007
This always seems far better then Fire Widow to me. Fire Widow is just one really irritating slab move, and lots of easy stuff, but this is steeper and more sustained.
It is just possible to lower your partner to the first bolt, and the ledge underneath, with a single 60m rope. Be careful! From here it is an easy downclimb for 15 feet.
|By John Dubya|
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This is a heady on-sight with sustained, technical moves and interesting gaps between bolts. Really good!