Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ironsides
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alloy Madness 
Chump 
Double Hung 
Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace 
High Seas 
Lump 
Port Side 
Repeat Offender 
Slab-a-dab-a-doo 
Unknown left of Port Side 
Void Where Prohibited 
Welcome to Dystopia 
Unsorted Routes:

Welcome to Dystopia 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Alvino Pon
Page Views: 754
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Jun 10, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

This is the next route right from Fire Widow. Begin climbing from the ledge, and pull a bouldery move past the first bolts (5.9). continue up the slab with a thin seam to the headwall. Climb past two 5.10 sections on the headwall, and belay at the anchors.

Rappel with two ropes, or swing to the right 85' to reach the anchors on Alloy Madness.


Protection 

11 bolts.



Comments on Welcome to Dystopia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jul 23, 2007

This always seems far better then Fire Widow to me. Fire Widow is just one really irritating slab move, and lots of easy stuff, but this is steeper and more sustained.

It is just possible to lower your partner to the first bolt, and the ledge underneath, with a single 60m rope. Be careful! From here it is an easy downclimb for 15 feet.

By John Dubya
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This is a heady on-sight with sustained, technical moves and interesting gaps between bolts. Really good!